34m, 2 pitches.
The blatantly obvious clean cut crack in the right side of Chapter Buttress just left of the prominent cave and corner gives a very good climb.
1. 26 m, 5b. Pull over the low roof and gain the hand jams. At the top of the crack go round the arete and climb its right side into a hanging niche. Exit this on good holds and go rightwards via a ramp to a steep but juggy final crack. As there are no belays at the crag top, belay on the uppermost of the heather ledges just above. Here there is an in-situ static rope with SS ring (placed in August 2024: the rope is protected by a reinforced clear plastic pipe, there are plenty of back-up options). Abseil or lower from the in-situ rope or:
2. 28 m, -, Climb the easy rib above to the heather (8 m). Walk 20 m up and slightly left through heather to belays at the crag-top abseil station.
1. 26 m, 5b. Pull over the low roof and gain the hand jams. At the top of the crack go round the arete and climb its right side into a hanging niche. Exit this on good holds and go rightwards via a ramp to a steep but juggy final crack. As there are no belays at the crag top, belay on the uppermost of the heather ledges just above. Here there is an in-situ static rope with SS ring (placed in August 2024: the rope is protected by a reinforced clear plastic pipe, there are plenty of back-up options). Abseil or lower from the in-situ rope or:
2. 28 m, -, Climb the easy rib above to the heather (8 m). Walk 20 m up and slightly left through heather to belays at the crag-top abseil station.
Harold Walmsley, Chris Calow 04/Jul/2024.
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Route of Interest
Looning the Tube
Grade: E1 5a ***
(Australia)