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Climbs 80
Rocktype Limestone

Faces E

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Sunset over Llandudno © Alejandro

Crag features

If any crag can claim to have the best hard sport climbing in the country then it isn?t Malham Cove or Raven Tor, it is in fact Lower Pen Trwyn. However LPT isn?t just about these super hard routes, it is the wealth of other good sport routes which make it the popular venue it now is; that and the lack of restrictions on the climbing. There are no bird restrictions, school holiday restrictions or loose route restrictions, here you can climb when you like. Well almost when you like; the tide has to be out but at least you can guarantee that this will happen once during daylight hours.
Further along the headland from lower Pen Trwyn are three other small locations - Dutchmans Zawn with 4 routes, Pigeons cave with 20 routes and three small walls and Cockshell Bay with another handful of routes.

Approach notes

Follow the Marine Drive until just past the first cave (the Dumbell Flyer Area). Jump over the wall and follow a well cut path steeply down onto the boulder beach.

Rockfax App

Available in the Rockfax App

The Rockfax App brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

North Wales Climbs

North Wales Climbs covers the best climbing from the whole of this huge and varied area. The book is modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs which set a new standard for selected climb guidebooks back in 2010. It contains all the routes from the 2010 publication North Wales Classics and many more routes and areas, with expanded descriptions and much bigger photo-topos. The book covers all the major mountain crags from Llanberis Pass, to Cloggy; and from Ogwen to the Carneddau. It also includes the Llanberis Slate quarries, Tremadog, the Moelwyns, the Gwynant Valley, Mid-Wales, Gogarth and the North Coast Limestone.
More info
More Guidebooks:
North Wales Limestone (2014)
North Wales Rock (2006)

Out of print:
Blog post/crag review of LPT: http://thefinalpunt.wordpress.com/2013/08/12/the-great-orme-lower-pen-trwyn/
a13x - 14/Aug/13
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Climbs at this crag

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