UKC

Climbs 100
Rocktype Culm
Altitude Tidal

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climber Nick Arding. Route Twilight Zone, middle Fin, Lower Sharpnose, N Devon © nick arding

Crag features

A major venue with incredible long thin fins sticking out into the sea facing both N and S (and some W). Tidal and abseil approach required. Bizarre construction but solid, and with a terrific concentration of hard face and crack climbs up to 150ft, with some tough 30ft testpieces for those lacking stamina. Many three-star routes, such as The Smile (E1 5b), Pacemaker (E5 6a) and Coronary Country (E6 6b). For the fit the grades will seem easy as the routes are mainly technically straightforward. The less travelled routes can be a bit dusty.

Approach notes

Tidal.

Near MOD land; best to park near the heavy metal gate a few hundred m N past the government buildings. Walk across the old airfield to join the coast path near the perimeter fence. Three narrow fins head out to the sea: that is them. Best to use the mixed slopes on the N and S of the fins.

Rockfax Digital

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Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

West Country Climbs

West Country Climbs is a major Rockfax guide to one of the UK’s most celebrated, sunny and diverse climbing regions. The book is fashioned in Rockfax’s award-winning layout and design, and copiously illustrated with action photographs of the climbs and cliffs that reflect the quality and variety of climbing experiences to be had on offer in the UK’s most popular holiday destination - the West Country. This is a selected route and buttress guidebook which covers the best 900 routes from the crags listed below.
More info
More Guidebooks:
South West Climbs Volume 2 (2014)

Out of print:
Superb venue. Lots of cams required. When checking tide times, use Bude not Bideford. We used the wrong one and came very close to being stranded because if it! Also well worth bringing an ab rope. The rockfax guide implies there is a nice shiny bolted ab point on North Fin - there isn't. It has 2 pegs (1 very recent and solid) plus numerous good nut placements, so needs a properly set up and equalised ab, not just twin ropes and pull through. I'm sure this all seems very obvious to sea cliff afficionardoes, but we haven't done much sea cliff climbing so weren't expecting this.
hms - 11/Aug/13
If anyone is confused about the walk-in, it helps to know to walk between the COW HERD and RADAR DISHES, following the fence around before heading on the small path down to the fins. If it would be useful perhaps interested climbers could ask UKC to put a photo up illustrating this characterful approach.
Fiend - 11/Jan/08
Mascon, E1 5a, on the North face of the North fin is well worth doing. Worthy of E1, possibly touching on 5b and definitely worth 3 stars.
dennis may - 27/Sep/05
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Climbs at this crag

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