Rockfax Description
An immaculate pitch on the best rock that Sharpnose has to offer. Start at a low ledge a few metres right of the arete. Low in the grade. From the right-hand end of the ledge, make a series of technical moves up a thin crack on the right to better holds. Continue up the wall via another crack to a quartz break that heads diagonally left to the top. Follow this line boldly to the top. © Rockfax
FA. Pat Littlejohn 24.4.86 24/Apr/1986.
Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Very good routes in the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Billg's 2017 sweepstake list , Extreme 2018 , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , The Local Ticklist , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , Preparation for the Resurrection , South West in Extremis , Soft Touches
User | Date | Notes | ||
---|---|---|---|---|
Misha | 27 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Replaced some of the tat 26.5.23 (the new tat is blue). There was an ok looking sling from the thread so didn’t replace that or the tat going to the thread. The no.4 wire was still looking ok after 3 years. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Replaced some of the tat 26.5.23 (the new tat is blue). There was an ok looking sling from the thread so didn’t replace that or the tat going to the thread. The no.4 wire was still looking ok after 3 years. |
||||
LRob | 6 Sep, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: With modern protection this would be better graded E2 | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: With modern protection this would be better graded E2 |
||||
Intothevoid? | 18 Apr, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Tat at top could do with some love. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Tat at top could do with some love. |
||||
Misha | 29 Jul, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Abseil tat and wire replaced 26.7.20 (there’s also a thread and an old peg). A number 5 wire is available as well. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Abseil tat and wire replaced 26.7.20 (there’s also a thread and an old peg). A number 5 wire is available as well. |
||||
alaan | 24 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Harder and more sustained than Diamond Smiles but obvious climbing. Still, even at its relatively modest, by Sharpnose standards, height of 20m this was very pumpy (for me at least)! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Harder and more sustained than Diamond Smiles but obvious climbing. Still, even at its relatively modest, by Sharpnose standards, height of 20m this was very pumpy (for me at least)! |
||||
Fiend | 12 Aug, 2007 |
Show βeta
βeta: Extremely enjoyable and very steady. Good rock and spaced but mercifully obvious gear make this a reassuring lead. The finish is not at all bold! Nice wall climbing the whole way. I don't really understand Sharpnose grades but this felt easy. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Extremely enjoyable and very steady. Good rock and spaced but mercifully obvious gear make this a reassuring lead. The finish is not at all bold! Nice wall climbing the whole way. I don't really understand Sharpnose grades but this felt easy. |
||||
ejected | 12 Sep, 2006 |
Show βeta
βeta: Path, bomber gear all the way to the top, no run out no hard moves, super cruisey climbing | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Path, bomber gear all the way to the top, no run out no hard moves, super cruisey climbing |
||||
Climber_Bill | 23 Nov, 2005 |
Show βeta
βeta: Really nice climbing. Good, but hard won protection make this an exciting route. Just don't do it in the wet and with a very close rising tide as we did. One of those, "Oh the rock will be drier higher up, the tides not coming in too fast!" Wrong on accounts! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Really nice climbing. Good, but hard won protection make this an exciting route. Just don't do it in the wet and with a very close rising tide as we did. One of those, "Oh the rock will be drier higher up, the tides not coming in too fast!" Wrong on accounts! |
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Tintagel Head)