UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
A great pitch taking a direct line passing the break of The Smile. Start 4m right of the boulder at the start of Diamond Smiles. Move up the wall to a good nut placement in a pocket at 4m and continue to the wide break of The Smile. Move left and follow a faint line of weakness rightwards up the wall to another diagonal break. Move left along the break to a brown stained widening of the break and take the left leading crack above it to the top. © Rockfax

FA. M. Hardwicke 15.5.86 15/May/1986.

Ticklists

West Country Climbs , The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200. , Culm Along , South West in Extremis

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User Date Notes
hornbywill 23 Aug, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Brill
βeta?
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βeta: Brill
Fiend 10 Sep, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Typical Sharpnose top quality with typical Sharpnose grades i.e. feels pretty easy. Committing start but it's the "25 feet of very sustained climbing" above the break that's the highlight, simply brilliant. Top goes on a bit too!
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βeta: Typical Sharpnose top quality with typical Sharpnose grades i.e. feels pretty easy. Committing start but it's the "25 feet of very sustained climbing" above the break that's the highlight, simply brilliant. Top goes on a bit too!
GDes 31 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Very good climbing, but How is this given E4? barely 5c climbing and plenty of gear. More like e2/e3. Agree that diamond smile is better.
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βeta: Very good climbing, but How is this given E4? barely 5c climbing and plenty of gear. More like e2/e3. Agree that diamond smile is better.
Jon W 6 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Again, not a bold start - a good small/medium nut about 12 ft up. Surely no 6a moves out there and plenty of gear to keep you safe. Good but I think Diamond Smiles is better.
βeta?
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βeta: Again, not a bold start - a good small/medium nut about 12 ft up. Surely no 6a moves out there and plenty of gear to keep you safe. Good but I think Diamond Smiles is better.

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 38
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 37
Votes cast 34
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Amnesty

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Pen Olver)

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