UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
Brilliant wall-climbing on excellent rock. Start in the centre of the wall at a boulder below a wide horizontal crack at 3m.
From the wide crack move onto the wall above via a pocket up and right. Follow the wall on good holds to the wide mid-height break of The Smile. Traverse the wide break left for 5m to below an old ring-peg in the upper wall. Climb the fingery wall past the peg to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The peg has been removed. There is adequate protection available.

FA. C. Nicholson 16.8.84 16/Aug/1984.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, West Country Climbs, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, CUC Climbing Club, Part 2: Hidden Gems, Adventures & Harder Offerings, Best of the rest and the ones that got away, The Devonman Cometh - Living in Exeter Top200., Culm Along

Feedback

User Date Notes
dpalmer1961 1 May Show βeta
βeta: Superb
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb
Fiend 12 Aug, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: It is a BIT bold at the start - you're quite close to the boulders. Another classic Sharpnose wall climb, made amenable by the good rest in the break. Getting to and past the peg requires some gusto, the finish is very nice.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is a BIT bold at the start - you're quite close to the boulders. Another classic Sharpnose wall climb, made amenable by the good rest in the break. Getting to and past the peg requires some gusto, the finish is very nice.
Strontium Dog 8 Jun, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Not bold at all. Fantastic route, good moves all the way to the top.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not bold at all. Fantastic route, good moves all the way to the top.
NuclearNev 15 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This route is NOT bold at the start. All you have to do is place a small friend diagonally in the diagonal finger buckets and it is safe. Quite a soft touch for E3 IMO.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This route is NOT bold at the start. All you have to do is place a small friend diagonally in the diagonal finger buckets and it is safe. Quite a soft touch for E3 IMO.

Logged Ascents

370 users have logged this
95 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 68
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 67
Votes cast 58
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Longships Wall

Grade: E3 6a ***
(Lands End)
Loading Notifications...