UKC

30m.

Rockfax Description
An outstanding wall-climb that rates as one of the best pitches in the West Country. Start at the base of a right to left diagonal line of quartz cracks.
Climb the diagonal cracks until it is possible to move up the wall to another left-trending crack. Follow the crack left until below a thin crack-line that heads up back right. Climb the thin cracks, peg, to a break and another peg before finishing steeply leftwards along the break. © Rockfax

FA. Pat Littlejohn 15.5.86 15/May/1986.

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK , Very good routes in the UK , Trad climbs for sport climbers , West Country Climbs , Rockfax West Country top 50 , Ultimate E5 ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , James' Summer Ticklist , World Class Britain & Ireland , 100 Pat Littlejohn Masterpieces , UK Trad , South West in Extremis

Feedback

User Date Notes
Misha 18 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Lower off gear is gone but it’s easy enough to go to the Fay ab point, which is a lot more substantial anyway compared to the small spike above Pacemaker.
βeta?
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βeta: Lower off gear is gone but it’s easy enough to go to the Fay ab point, which is a lot more substantial anyway compared to the small spike above Pacemaker.
Michael Porter 4 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Lower off (yellow cord & maillon) installed 1/5/21
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Lower off (yellow cord & maillon) installed 1/5/21
Duncan Campbell 21 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: There was an in situ sling to abseil off at the top of this.
βeta?
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βeta: There was an in situ sling to abseil off at the top of this.
Eduardo Martinez 26 Aug, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: The pegs were in ok nic. Bring an eight foot sling and old crab so you can put round the obvious solid boss at the top and simply lower off. Saves the faff of finding a belay and then abbing
βeta?
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βeta: The pegs were in ok nic. Bring an eight foot sling and old crab so you can put round the obvious solid boss at the top and simply lower off. Saves the faff of finding a belay and then abbing
GDes 31 Jul, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant climbing. Not much harder than Fay, good gear.
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant climbing. Not much harder than Fay, good gear.
Strontium Dog 26 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This is an awesome an intricate line. Some say E5 6b, some E5 6a. Personally, I think it is E5 6a as my eyes weren't too far out on stalks as I did the crux. Good gear where it is needed. Certainly harder than Fay.
βeta?
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βeta: This is an awesome an intricate line. Some say E5 6b, some E5 6a. Personally, I think it is E5 6a as my eyes weren't too far out on stalks as I did the crux. Good gear where it is needed. Certainly harder than Fay.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Lower Sharpnose Point

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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 57
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 47
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Overkeel

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Tintagel Head)

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