UKC

75m, 3 pitches. Offer it up on P1...things will get better! P1, 4a, 25m. Climb unpleasant lichenous run out slab with no gear, go up gorsy groove and swing left past vegetation to tree belay to recover.
P2, 5a, 27m offers superb climbing, quite pumpy but the gear is good. Route wanders a lot, so watch out for drag. Top of the grade. From the tree, climb the steep corner behind the tree, exiting on good holds. Move up to gain a ledge and climb the steep right-trending ramp, with an awkward move to start. At the top of the ramp move up and slightly left to gain a short groove. Up this past a small holly tree to a stance at a large crevasse.
P3, 23m, 4a: Traverse left below an overlap to a tree and follow the clean slanting groove above to the Terrace. The original finish to this climb took the final pitch of Crevasse Route at tough, quite airy 4c, probably a better finish!

K. Higgs, S. Windrim, P. Ewen, 19/9/1979 19/Sep/1979.

Ticklists

Ireland 3 Star HVS , Irish MCI Multipitch Routes

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User Date Notes
Se├ín Fortune 23 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Gave it a decent clean afterwards, should be in pretty good nick now bar the first 10m or so
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Gave it a decent clean afterwards, should be in pretty good nick now bar the first 10m or so

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 6
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Sarcophagus

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Glendalough (Ireland))

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