Description
A trilogy, if you will, of 5.9 Sundance Buttress Classics: Mainliner, Sidetrack and between them, Betwix'em. There is a third pitch to this route, but we optioned for Mainliner's stemming crux pitch.
#1. Start a few feet left of Mainliner up a 4 inch 5.7 crack. From the pillar top, follow knobs up a corner with a grass hummock to a left-leaning (5.6R) ramp and belay atop this feature in a blocky crack. This point may be reached a bit more directly by nice 5.8/9 handjamming via a traverse left through a Thimbleberry patch.
#2 This pitch is especially sweet. Follow vertical 5.9 cracks, first staying left then finally arching right over black knobs and flakes (excellent protection) to a good belay on or near Mainliner.
Protection
Standard Lumpy, many stoppers to #4 Friend.
A trilogy, if you will, of 5.9 Sundance Buttress Classics: Mainliner, Sidetrack and between them, Betwix'em. There is a third pitch to this route, but we optioned for Mainliner's stemming crux pitch.
#1. Start a few feet left of Mainliner up a 4 inch 5.7 crack. From the pillar top, follow knobs up a corner with a grass hummock to a left-leaning (5.6R) ramp and belay atop this feature in a blocky crack. This point may be reached a bit more directly by nice 5.8/9 handjamming via a traverse left through a Thimbleberry patch.
#2 This pitch is especially sweet. Follow vertical 5.9 cracks, first staying left then finally arching right over black knobs and flakes (excellent protection) to a good belay on or near Mainliner.
Protection
Standard Lumpy, many stoppers to #4 Friend.
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Route of Interest
Main Liner
Grade: 5.9 ***
(Sundance Buttress)