UKC

Description
As the only moderate offering on the right side of the Book, this is a great route especially if you want to sneak in a quick climb with rapid escape options. Large overhangs guard the lower part of the wall right of the Mission Impossible dihedral. This route follows a crack system through the only reasonable (for mere mortals anyway), break through the overhangs, just right of Fascist Drill in the West.

Start up a pair of cracks and angle right through the overhang at a finger crack (crux, 5.7+). Continue up the nice, steep 5.6 handcrack above to a stance next to a small tree on the right. It is possible to rap off to the right here at the tree or continue up the lower angled and ever-widening crack above to where it turns into a chimney.

Descend to the right, eastward.

This is a long 150+ foot pitch and protects very well.
Protection
Standard rack with extra larger pieces for the top half of the route.

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Voting
High 5.8
Mid 5.8
Low 5.8
High 5.7
Mid 5.7
Low 5.7
High 5.6
Mid 5.6
Low 5.6
Route of Interest
Osiris

Grade: 5.7 ***
(Lumpy Ridge)

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