UKC

Climbs 1265
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 1m a.s.l
Faces W

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The brilliantly positioned arete of Shark. © Alex the Alex

Crag features

Lies off the Devon coast (and is officially part of Devon, but we think of it more as a place in its own right).

Info on rocktype, and crags, welcome.

See here for latest restrictions

Approach notes

For details on accommodation, sailing times of the ferry and camping, contact The Landmark Trust, Shottesbrooke, Maidenhead, Berks SL6 3SW or call 01628 825 925

Access Advice

Accommodation details can be obtained from the Landmark Trust (Tel: 01628 825925). Please check in as a climber with the Lundy Warden on arrival for up to date access information on extended or lifted climbing restrictions, recent rockfall etc. Letting the Landmark Trust know you are a climber when you book your ferry and accommodation doesn't get this information through to the warden so drop in and say hello when you arrive.

A number of rockfalls have affected several crags along the west coast in recent years – please see the CC guidebook supplement for details on what has been affected.

Please do not place any additional abseil/belay stakes or abseil slings without first gaining permission from the Lundy Warden. The approaches to all the cliffs on the island can be safeguarded with enough rope and common sense. This is essential to maintaining a continued good relationship with the Warden and the Landmark Trust.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 31 March to 15 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Restrictions on Lundy fall into one of three categories - unrestricted year round, restricted 31st Mar-14 Aug and crags restricted 31st Mar-15th Sept. Page numbers refer to the first page of each crag from the CC Lundy (2008) guidebook.

Restrictions are continually monitored by the Lundy Warden and team, but if you see any nesting birds within unrestricted areas, please report to the Warden. If birds fledge early or sites fail, the affected restrictions will be lifted once the warden has confirmed that the site(s) are vacant. Likewise, occasionally nesting may start later in the season requiring extension to the restricted period - always check RAD and with the Warden on arrival for any updates to the restrictions. 

Unrestricted crags (year round access)

  • Damocles Buttress (pg 29)
  • Sunset Wall (pg 81)
  • Landing Craft Bay: First Buttress South (pg 102), First Buttress North (pg 105) & Second Buttress North (pg 111)
  • Flying Buttress Main Cliff: from The Exorcist (pg 128) to Flying Dutchman (pg 136) inclusive. Access to this area must be via the steps down to the Battery. Do not walk direct across the slope above Battery Cliff/St Patrick’s Buttress. Please also take care to stay close to the edge on the easy way down to ensure nesting sea birds are not disturbed.
  • The Earthquake (pg 153)
  • The Devil’s Slide Area: Narrow Zawn (pg 243) to The Fortress (pg 278)
  • Torrey Canyon Cliff: Penitence (pg 289) to Blow Out (pg 290) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
  • Headline Promontory: The Column (pg 316) Margin (pg 321) inclusive. During nesting season, access only directly down the rocky ridge and abseil directly into the routes, to avoid disturbing nesting birds on the guidebook approach.
  • The East Coast Quarries (pg 354-359)

Crags restricted 31st March-14th August

  • Kistvaen Buttress (pg 29) to Sunset Promontory (pg 97) inclusive
  • St Patrick’s Buttress (pg 112) to Battery Cliff (pg 124) inclusive
  • Flying Buttress from Prenumbra (pg 136) to St James’s Stone (pg 241) inclusive
  • St John’s Stone (pg 282) to Gannet’s Buttress (pg 360) and Gannet’s Rock (pg 362) inclusive

Crags restricted 31st March-15th September

  • Black Jack Zawn, Lifeboat Buttress & Jemima Buttress (pg 125)
  • Flying Buttress: Prenumbra to The Black Pig inclusive (pg 136 – 138)
  • Devil’s Tower area (pg 162) & Big Zawn (pg 208)
  • Cormorant Zawn (pg 335)
  • Storm Zawn (pg 336) & North Light Channel (pg 327)
  • Gannets’ Rock & Gannets’ Buttress (pg 354)
Good work on the clean up! Nice to see all the red gone.
Bobling - 24/Apr/12
Toreador, thank you for cleaning this up. Last time I looked the page was a total mess, must have been a lot of work to get everything sorted!
remus - 30/Sep/11
I agree, and then it could be broken into crag areas (as above). Its too unwieldy at the moment.
mozzer - 21/Sep/10
Shouldn't this section be intergrated into the large "Lundy" section on UKC, rather than on its own?
hcooper - 19/Aug/09
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Climbs at this crag

Beta
Name Grade Stars Type Logs Partner Ascents
These climbs you have climbed clean.
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.

Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer John Brayshaw

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