UKC

Climbs 150
Rocktype UNKNOWN
Altitude 11m a.s.l
Faces N

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SlopeyTravExtension © M G Edwards

Crag features

Visit http://exmoorbouldering.com for new ascents, downloadable guide, details of other areas, new topos, videos, news etc.

The rock is Devonian Era (400 million year old) metamorphised sandstone.  Bouldering can be found east and west of the village.  A good selection of problems of all angles. Low friction, wave polished, slopers are abound.  Conditions can be fickle and you will need to be aware of the tides which have the 2nd largest range in on the planet (upto 10 metres difference between low and high tide on spring tides).  Best to time your visit an hour or 2 around low tide to make the most of it.

 

Approach notes

Tidal - beware: you may get cut off and put yourself/ others in danger. The beach is public and the tide will wash your chalk off. Parking at Lynmouth Harbour (Pay & Display or have a limited time from March to Oct). Walk across footbridge over river and continue eastwards. Nearest boulders are 5 mins East along beach from main parking areas. Situated beyond the area known as Blacklands or Black Rocks, marked as Point Perilous on the Map. On Neap tides initial areas are available at all stages of tide. Continue walking easrwards to find more bouldering. Anarchy Arete etc. is reached via a westward boulder hop from the end of the sea front car park.   IT IS NO LONGER POSSIBLE TO ACCESS SILLERY SANDS VIA THE 'ZIG ZAG' PATH BECAUSE OF ROCK FALL/ PATH COLLAPSE. (Pipeline 8a+ is situated here but you're probably gonna need a boat to get in at present).

WARNING! The 'zig zag' path above Sillery sands is currently inaccessible, the steps that led to the beach were knocked out by winter storms 2013/14 and have not been replaced.
granticus - 10/Dec/14
Short video of some of the problems here: https://vimeo.com/69571234
EdGS - 04/Jul/13
Beach levels are currently perfect in most spots. Joker and the Thief etc.. all 'proper' ticks at the moment.
granticus - 17/Jun/13
Joker and the Thief block is currently burried! Such is the way of Lynmouth some different blocks have been revealed after this change in beach levels. Lots of new stuff has been done over the winter. Guide update in process.
granticus - 10/Feb/13
Really good to see some youngsters getting on these problems. Good effort Luke and Hamish! Alot of them have only had a couple of ascents, 'Time and Tide' is waiting for a 3rd ascent, 'White Men Can't Jump' is unrepeated. Over at west 'Anarchy arete' the number of ascentionists can be counted on 1 hand. Get to it lads!
granticus - 04/Aug/11
A free pdf guide to Lynmouth bouldering is now available from www.javu.co.uk and/or www.rustypeg.co.uk. ;o)
granticus - 21/Mar/11
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Climbs at this crag

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