UKC

Climbs 83
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 321m a.s.l
Faces W

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The Corner, Maeshafn © caradoc

Crag features

Disused limestone quarry, good quality, quick-drying rock. Wide selection of good single-pitch routes (upto 20 metres).

Approach notes

Follow the A494 Mold bypass towards Ruthin as far as the village of Gwernymynedd. Carry on up the hill to the Rainbow garage and turn left immediately before the garage heading towards the Owain Glyndyr pub. Turn right at the pub and carry on for about a quarter of a mile to a bungalow on the right and, 100 metres further on, a farm on the left. Just after the bungalow there is a dirt track on the right. Park on the side of the road and walk through a gate and up the muddy track passing some farm buildings on the left; through another gate and into a field where the Main wall of the quarry comes into view.

It is imperative that permission is obtained from the land owners at the cottage before the access path and that all gates are kept shut and dogs are under very close control (i.e. kept on a short lead).

Restricted Access

The crag lies on private land with no public right of access beyond the approach path, which is a public right of way. 

Access is permitted only if the following conditions are met - it's is imperative that all climbers using the site adhere to these conditions :-

• Climbers must ask permission to climb, please pop into the farm and ask every time before climbing

• Large groups are not permitted.  Park considerately, not blocking gates or access tracks. Keep noise to a minimum, (No music, bluetooth speakers or ghetto blasters!)

  • Do not drop litter and please pick up any that you may see there. 

• Dogs to be strictly on leads at all times  -some groups have turned up with dogs off lead when there are sheep, lambs and cows in the fields.

• Lack of activity during lockdown has led to an increase in vegetation on the crag and top outs. Some of this has been cleared without the landowner's blessing and was cleared during a time when farmers are not allowed to clear vegetation (nesting). Please ask at farmhouse if it ok to clear vegetation.

• Pandemic has increased sensitivity to these issues, and the landowner has had to turn away large groups and climbers from as far away as London during restricted travel times.

I live about 5 mins from the crag. The farmers a really nice guy and is normally pottering about outside his house. His dogs friendly too and quite often trots upto the gate with us. I'd agree that its a great place for beginners. Was up there just last week with the missus and it rained as we left home. by the time we'd got there it was dry :-) Plenty of stakes if you want them.
jaswa - 26/Oct/08
Not as nice as it sounds, the rock isn't as fun to climb on as Pothole, but it would still be a good venue for picnicking on a sunny, fresh day.
Fiend - 19/Oct/05
What has happened to 'Rise to the equation E2 5c". I can't find it on these pages.
Julian Wedd - 07/Jun/05
yes there are stakes now there never used to be it was the odd tree and thorne bush when i was a lad!!!
ashaw - 21/Mar/05
Very pleasant crag, good for picnics, good routes to.good range of grades
Mirf - 03/Oct/04
Trees to tie on to?? There's loads of (newly-placed?)stakes and good routes.
William - 05/Oct/03
Brilliant crag for beginners: loads of trees at the top to tie off to. However, it\'s a wet grassy slope down to the crag edge - do not forget to tie on.
allan shaw - 26/Mar/02
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