UKC

Climbs 13
Rocktype Sandstone (soft)
Altitude 3m a.s.l
Faces all

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Maiden Rock © Jonninho

Crag features

Obvious sandstone (Soft!) pinnacle on the coast S/E of St Andrews.

Rock is soft sandstone, with numerous pockets/scars, and is quite friable, with some loose sections. Several routes up on all aretes and faces.

Because of the soft and friable nature of the rock, trad gear placements should be viewed with suspicion, and their likliehood to damage the rock should be taken into consideration.

Toproping is an alternative, although please make sure you rig the karabiners over the edge and use a rope protector (or a bag) to prevent unnecessary damage to the rock.

Routes are logged left to right (walking anti-clockwise around the rock), starting on the left corner of the south face - which is opposite you on approach


Popular with local boulderers, but needs a mat as landing is on large pebbles.

Approach notes

Follow the coastal path from St Andrews east sands towards Crail - about 15 minutes walk. The top of the rock is just visible from the path, and some overgrown stone steps lead down to the beach.

Worth a messabout if you're out for a dander, rock is surprisingly decent.
Andy Moles - 21/Jan/10
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