UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverdale or Goredale instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

 

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2023 has been lifted (as of 23rd May) due to nest failure.

 

Peregrine restriction:  Malham is an important and very visible site for nesting peregrines. The restriction when in force applies to all the routes on the Terrace Wall and the Carnage Area of the Right Wing from 1st March-31st July. However, the routes to the right of Scorpio (which starts as for Carnage Left Hand) are unrestricted.

The bolted sport routes on the right side of Upper Central Wall are unaffected except for those that breach the main overhang. On-site notices will also be in place and RSPB volunteers will monitor the birds throughout the nesting period. 

House martins also frequently nest between May-September, often on the popular hard sport routes (frequently affecting Raindogs, Seventh Aardvark, Bat Route and others). Please avoid any routes with nests on or near to avoid damaging the nests, until the young have fledged. It will be obvious which nests are being used due to parents flying in and out. Whilst routes can be climbed once the young have fledged, they can return to the nest site to roost, so be careful not to damage the nests.

76m, 2 pitches. From Dave Musgrove:

The original line climbed by Barrie Biven and Trevor Peck in 1959 climbed
the wall in 3 pitches. The first pitch was short from the right side of the
beck up to the catwalk. The second started around about where Free and Even
Easier does now but climbed up and leftwards through the bulges to the tree
on the upper ledge on the left. The third pitch took a direct line roughly
on the line of what is now Local Hero.

In the early 1960s the second pitch was straightened out and better bolts
were added starting further left where Chiselling the dragon goes now. The
route was very popular in the 60s and 70s but the short first pitch became
redundant and was rarely climbed. This route became known as the
Directissima.

Barrie Biven, Trevor Peck 1959.

Ticklists

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High A3
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High A2
Mid A2
Low A2
High A1
Mid A1
Low A1
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
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DNF
Onsighted
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Route of Interest
If you're not flying, you're not trying

Grade: A2 ***
(Newton Dale (Pickering Woods))

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