UKC

Restricted Access

Access to Malham is a privilege and subject to the following climbers access agreement. Please ensure you read, understand and follow these points to ensure continued good relations with the Parish Council, other landowners, farmers and local residents

  • Stick to public rights of way - don't take short cuts though fields below the Cove as these are not Open Acces land
  • Always use the public toilet block next to the pub instead of the bushes
  • Follow the bolting agreement - no bolting at weekends, during the school summer holiday or whilst the nesting restriction is in effect to ensure noise doesn't disturb nesting birds or detract from other visitors experience
  • No wild camping near the Cove or nearby fields, or sleeping in vehicles in the village or parking areas - use the campsite at Riverside campsite in Malham, or the Gordale Scar campsite instead
  • Parking is a very sensitive issue - only park in the locations listed in the parking section below
  • Make use of local business (pubs/cafes/restaurants etc) after a day at the crag and help to put money back into the local economy

By following these guidelines, you'll be making sure the currently good relations with the village and Parish Council are maintained for the future.

Respect the Rock: How to climb at Malham Cove - YouTube

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 September

Reason: Nesting Birds

Update: The Peregrine restriction for 2025 has been lifted as of 19th May. Sadly the nest failed this year.

60m, 2 pitches. The old aided line of what is now Totally Free. Hanging belay at half height.

From Dave Musgrove:
The Super Directissima was climbed by John Sumner and Glen Kirkham in 1969
and started where Biven's original second pitch [of The Directissima] started (up Free and Even Easier) and continued more directly to a hanging stance between the ledges and finished up what is now the line of Free and Easy and out over the top roof.

John Sumner, Glenn Kirkham.

Ticklists

Aid climbing

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Guidebooks for Malham Cove

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Voting
High A3
Mid A3
Low A3
High A2+
Mid A2+
Low A2+
High A2
Mid A2
Low A2
High A1+
Mid A1+
Low A1+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Cave Route (aid)

Grade: A2 ***
(Gordale Scar)

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