Restricted Access
Access currently barred west of The Cauldron. For Skildren Mór, access is subject to permission from the land owner, John Ward (john@headland.ie)
35m.
Descend to the bottom of the ridge by scrambling down its Southern flank. On its other side, just before the small pinnacle, is an easy angled slab that appears to lie against a steeper face. In fact these two are separated by a bergshrund like gully. Start at the upper end of the 'shrund. Descend a few metres into the bergshrund until it is possible to use some quartz topped holds to traverse awkwardly left into the crack that continues to the top. (Suggestion: check which crack you are heading for by looking from the easy angled slab beforehand!)
The crack is easier than the traverse and there is good protection. The rock is solid until the angle eases at the top.
The crack is easier than the traverse and there is good protection. The rock is solid until the angle eases at the top.
Trevor Hartley and Alfie Conn 10/Jun/2012.
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Route of Interest
Hydrophobia
Grade: VS 4b ***
(Malinbeg)