85m, 3 pitches.
Marie Celeste HVS 5a, 3c, 4b 85m
A relatively serious (for the grade) north to south traverse of the mainland wall opposite the island. A fall for lead or second would be unpleasant!
Start – Abseil in from the boulders at the top of First/Second Mate.
1.) 5a 30m. Start as for Bye Centennial. Follow the rising diagonal foot traverse to the bottom of the obvious groove then move right, step down and right and go below and around overhang to the right. Cross thin slab to less than great belay on small ledges.
2.) 3c 40m (could be split into two shorter pitches 3a/3c). Short traverse from belay to reach easier ground in the middle section of the wall. Continue at this level for 20m then cross the slab of Captains Table to reach a belay ledge 2/3 of the way up the corner of Devilled Kippers.
3.) 4b 15m. Step down 2m from belay and traverse out across the wall (no protection) to reach the arete. Go around this to the right with great exposure to gain the easier ground of Below Deck (VD). Follow to the top. There is no gear on the traverse so the leader can consider not placing any gear at all, giving their second a top rope on this pitch!
Gavin Williams, W Poots 25/08/2023
A relatively serious (for the grade) north to south traverse of the mainland wall opposite the island. A fall for lead or second would be unpleasant!
Start – Abseil in from the boulders at the top of First/Second Mate.
1.) 5a 30m. Start as for Bye Centennial. Follow the rising diagonal foot traverse to the bottom of the obvious groove then move right, step down and right and go below and around overhang to the right. Cross thin slab to less than great belay on small ledges.
2.) 3c 40m (could be split into two shorter pitches 3a/3c). Short traverse from belay to reach easier ground in the middle section of the wall. Continue at this level for 20m then cross the slab of Captains Table to reach a belay ledge 2/3 of the way up the corner of Devilled Kippers.
3.) 4b 15m. Step down 2m from belay and traverse out across the wall (no protection) to reach the arete. Go around this to the right with great exposure to gain the easier ground of Below Deck (VD). Follow to the top. There is no gear on the traverse so the leader can consider not placing any gear at all, giving their second a top rope on this pitch!
Gavin Williams, W Poots 25/08/2023
G Williams Wpoots 25/Aug/2023.
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Route of Interest
Wreck of Mary Deare
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Malinbeg)