300m. Grid ref: NN 118 629
A superb adventure up the deep chasm in the North side of Mam na Gualainn, following the watercourse of the Allt Teangaidh na h-Earba. Similar in character to Rapunzel on Beinn Fhionnlaidh, climbed after two weeks of sub-zero temperatures.

Approach via the west highland way from Kinlochleven. Just as the chasm comes into view, turn left onto a path signposted 'Loch Leven & north Ballachulish' and cross the Allt na Lairige Moire. Strike uphill left of the watercourse until flat ground is reached and the chasm can be entered at the point where it deepens. Walk to below the first chimney (another easier-looking gully branches off right from here).

P1, 30m : Climb the chimney, moving right where it widens at it's top. Continue along the riverbed to belay at an ice pillar on the left.

P2, 60m : Walk up to the continuation groove, and climb this via an awkward entry. Easy ground leads to a huge boulder in the middle of the gully.

Easy snow now leads up and right for 90m into a bay below a steep icefall with an overhanging right wall. An easier left-hand finish straight up the wide gully awaits a first ascent.

P3, 40m: Climb the superb icefall to a snow funnel. Move up this to belay on the right wall (ice hooks useful here in the hairline cracks).

A straightforward shallow gully now leads to easy ground and the top in 80m.

James Laing and Aidan Robinson 12/Feb/2021.


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Route of Interest
Left Hand Amigo

Grade: V ***
(Eilde Canyon)

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