UKC

Hakuna Matata (16) 65m
Access. From the base of Manana continue around the ledge (fixed rope) till you reach the base
of a corner/groove.
Pitch 1 (16) 20m
Easy climbing up the crack and corner system leads to a large overhanging block, climb up and
over the block into the chimney (crux), belay on the narrow ledge inside the chimney. (Pro; CD,
Hex, W)
Pitch 2(16) 15m
Climb out of the chimney onto the left face, climb straight up the face arranging pro in the
corner crack and in the thin crack on the face. Follow the crack system through the overhang
to the belay ledge under the roof. Pitch 1 and 2 can be done as one pitch. (Pro; CD, Hex, W)
Pitch 3(16) 30m
Traverse right, across the small wall to the flax bush, then climb the arete and face. Climb the
face staying to the very right hand edge till you reach the base of the pinnacle. The original line
climbed up the rather loose chimney summitting on top of the pinnacle then climbed down the
other side to the belay. Alternatively escape out right up the grassy ramp and belay between
the two pinnacles. (Pro; CD, Hex, W)

Dave Garrity & Bryce Martin 05/Jan/1998.

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Route of Interest
The Gecko Groove

Grade: 16 ***
(Kawakawa Bay)

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