UKC

24m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant and unusual route which is very un-Peak-like - not a single crimp in sight! It requires a good dry spell to come into condition although it does get ascents with the odd damp hold. Climb the sidewall, then link the pockets across the roof to reach a jug some way above the big fat chain on the lip. Reverse to the chain since the lower-off above is rotten. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Possibly only 7c+, especially if you miss the last bit by finishing at the chain.

FFA. Andy Pollitt 1988. FA. Bob Dearman, A Cornish, Jeff Morgan 1969.

Ticklists

Classic Hard Peak Limestone, Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+, Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50, The Peak: Past and Present, World Graded List, Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), UK 8a and up, Definitive *** Peak Lime, Lime Time, Steep UK Sport Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
spidey 23 Jul, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Brilliant climbing. Wet in mid section. Finger board/ some stamina training would help on this. Account open!
βeta?
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βeta: Brilliant climbing. Wet in mid section. Finger board/ some stamina training would help on this. Account open!
andi turner 26 Jun, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: Truly awesome, a fantastic route. I hope it is 8a but probably 7c+. Not a bad move on the entire route and the wet pockets can be dried quite well with a tea towel. Jams, crimps, undercuts, footlocks and a cut-loose! Amazing.
βeta?
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βeta: Truly awesome, a fantastic route. I hope it is 8a but probably 7c+. Not a bad move on the entire route and the wet pockets can be dried quite well with a tea towel. Jams, crimps, undercuts, footlocks and a cut-loose! Amazing.
robert mirfin 21 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Did this in 1994 was awesome then, sounds even better now. Good effort. Glad it`s considered 8a now too. one of the best sport routes in the peak/europe
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βeta: Did this in 1994 was awesome then, sounds even better now. Good effort. Glad it`s considered 8a now too. one of the best sport routes in the peak/europe
Boy 3 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Route description should say climb past the chain to big jugs over the lip. The chain is there as a lower off for the aid route. Pollitt's original belay for TM is a few metres above the lip, but it is safer (given the state of the old belay) to drop off onto the chain at the end of the difficulties at a big jug over the lip. Finishing at the chain misses out some good and tricky moves.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Route description should say climb past the chain to big jugs over the lip. The chain is there as a lower off for the aid route. Pollitt's original belay for TM is a few metres above the lip, but it is safer (given the state of the old belay) to drop off onto the chain at the end of the difficulties at a big jug over the lip. Finishing at the chain misses out some good and tricky moves.
Boy 29 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Have re-equiped with new bolts and replaced three messy threads with two bolts. It has always been a sport route (the threads being trustworthy) so I think should be 8a not E7. Brilliant climbing, with wild and disorientating moves. One of the best routes i have ever been on. Unfortunately the pockets are very prone to seepage.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Have re-equiped with new bolts and replaced three messy threads with two bolts. It has always been a sport route (the threads being trustworthy) so I think should be 8a not E7. Brilliant climbing, with wild and disorientating moves. One of the best routes i have ever been on. Unfortunately the pockets are very prone to seepage.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High 8a+
Mid 8a+
Low 8a+
High 8a
Mid 8a
Low 8a
High 7c+
Mid 7c+
Low 7c+
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest

Escape to Valhalla

Grade: 8a ***
(Manifold Valley)
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