UKC Logbook - 'Thormen's Moth'

24m.

Rockfax Description
A brilliant and unusual route which is very un-Peak-like - not a single crimp in sight! It requires a good dry spell to come into condition although it does get ascents with the odd damp hold. Climb the sidewall, then link the pockets across the roof to reach a jug some way above the big fat chain on the lip. Reverse to the chain since the lower-off above is rotten. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Possibly only 7c+, especially if you miss the last bit by finishing at the chain.

FFA. Andy Pollitt 1988. FA. Bob Dearman, A Cornish, Jeff Morgan 1969.

Ticklists

Classic Hard Peak Limestone , Peak District Limestone top 50 sport up to 8a+ , Rockfax Peak Limestone (2012) Top 50 , The Peak: Past and Present , World Graded List , Peak Rock/15/The Dawn of Sport:A Bolt From the Blue , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , UK 8a and up , Definitive *** Peak Lime , Lime Time , Steep UK Sport Routes , Short King's Queen Lines , Sportland

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User	Date		Notes
maxrose	4 Aug, 2021	Show βeta βeta: It's mostly dry. One damp undercut but insignificant	βeta?
Show beta βeta: It's mostly dry. One damp undercut but insignificant
spidey	23 Jul, 2019	Show βeta βeta: Brilliant climbing. Wet in mid section. Finger board/ some stamina training would help on this. Account open!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Brilliant climbing. Wet in mid section. Finger board/ some stamina training would help on this. Account open!
andi turner	26 Jun, 2006	Show βeta βeta: Truly awesome, a fantastic route. I hope it is 8a but probably 7c+. Not a bad move on the entire route and the wet pockets can be dried quite well with a tea towel. Jams, crimps, undercuts, footlocks and a cut-loose! Amazing.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Truly awesome, a fantastic route. I hope it is 8a but probably 7c+. Not a bad move on the entire route and the wet pockets can be dried quite well with a tea towel. Jams, crimps, undercuts, footlocks and a cut-loose! Amazing.
robert mirfin	21 Sep, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Did this in 1994 was awesome then, sounds even better now. Good effort. Glad it`s considered 8a now too. one of the best sport routes in the peak/europe	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Did this in 1994 was awesome then, sounds even better now. Good effort. Glad it`s considered 8a now too. one of the best sport routes in the peak/europe
Boy	3 Aug, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Route description should say climb past the chain to big jugs over the lip. The chain is there as a lower off for the aid route. Pollitt's original belay for TM is a few metres above the lip, but it is safer (given the state of the old belay) to drop off onto the chain at the end of the difficulties at a big jug over the lip. Finishing at the chain misses out some good and tricky moves.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Route description should say climb past the chain to big jugs over the lip. The chain is there as a lower off for the aid route. Pollitt's original belay for TM is a few metres above the lip, but it is safer (given the state of the old belay) to drop off onto the chain at the end of the difficulties at a big jug over the lip. Finishing at the chain misses out some good and tricky moves.
Boy	29 Jul, 2005	Show βeta βeta: Have re-equiped with new bolts and replaced three messy threads with two bolts. It has always been a sport route (the threads being trustworthy) so I think should be 8a not E7. Brilliant climbing, with wild and disorientating moves. One of the best routes i have ever been on. Unfortunately the pockets are very prone to seepage.	βeta?
Show beta βeta: Have re-equiped with new bolts and replaced three messy threads with two bolts. It has always been a sport route (the threads being trustworthy) so I think should be 8a not E7. Brilliant climbing, with wild and disorientating moves. One of the best routes i have ever been on. Unfortunately the pockets are very prone to seepage.