Restricted Access

New safety signing has been erected indicating the site owners (Hickley & Bosworth Borough Council) now prohibit a number of recreational activities in the quarry - including climbing and abseiling. Despite an approach to the Council by the BMC to discuss their concerns and the unfortunate situation of public land having restricted access in an area where it provides an important public amenity, no contact from the Council has been forthcoming. If climbers do decide to access the crag and are asked to leave by the landower, please be polite and pack away as soon as is safely possible. 

Be careful of break-ins at the car park.

50m. This is the description from the Old Leicestershire Climbs Book from the early 90's
Baptism 40m VS 5b at high level . ***
4c for the low-level variant. E3 for non-swimmers
From the bay walk around the grass bank. Up this and traverse the undercut slab to its left-hand end. Move down across a steep wall to a hard move into a dirty corner lapped by overhangs. There is an old peg here.

Traverse down across a wall to the left and continue the traverse at water level enjoying the transformation from sound rock to loose vegetated choss.

D.T. Holyoak and P.J. Howard, Oct 1970.

4c low-level variant: if the water is low (and you have long legs) it is possible to make a giant stride and pull across underneath the initial overhang and continue to complete the first section.

On the second section swing down the borehole on the right and traverse left centimeters above the water. Rejoin the main traverse. Impossible at high water.

D.T. Holyoak and P.J. Howard, Oct/1970.


WUCC Must Do Local Climbs


User Date Notes
althesin 25 Jun, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Swim in and swim out with current vegatation.
Show beta
βeta: Swim in and swim out with current vegatation.

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Grade: VS 4c ***
(The Brand)

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