Restricted Access
New safety signing has been erected indicating the site owners (Hickley & Bosworth Borough Council) now prohibit a number of recreational activities in the quarry - including climbing and abseiling. Despite an approach to the Council by the BMC to discuss their concerns and the unfortunate situation of public land having restricted access in an area where it provides an important public amenity, no contact from the Council has been forthcoming. If climbers do decide to access the crag and are asked to leave by the landower, please be polite and pack away as soon as is safely possible.
Be careful of break-ins at the car park.
20m.
The star route. Start at the right hand toe of the buttress by a short wall. Climb up and leftwards on to a leftwards-inclined undercut slab. Up leftwards to the large ledge beneath the overhangs. Make exposed swing up right on good holds to easy ground and the top. Much better than it looks.
K.S. Vickers and G.W. Boulton, 1973.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graham 'Sven' Hassall | 20 Jul, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: A great route on a crag that desperately needs some love (July 2023). Low in the grade but with engaging climbing and good gear throughout. Is best climbed with twin ropes. The top out has a small stake in situ that can be backed up with a couple of cams. Beware that after climbing you have to scramble up for 15m to the top of the quarried buttress to walk off. This is slippy and treacherous being covered in gorse and dead needles. A pre-placed rope is recommended as abseil from the top of the climb is not possible without leaving gear behind. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: A great route on a crag that desperately needs some love (July 2023). Low in the grade but with engaging climbing and good gear throughout. Is best climbed with twin ropes. The top out has a small stake in situ that can be backed up with a couple of cams. Beware that after climbing you have to scramble up for 15m to the top of the quarried buttress to walk off. This is slippy and treacherous being covered in gorse and dead needles. A pre-placed rope is recommended as abseil from the top of the climb is not possible without leaving gear behind. |
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