UKC

275m, 7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
HVS. An old and popular climb, the route was fully bolted briefly, but most of these have been removed - carry a light rack. Although there is only one hard pitch, it is a fairly committing undertaking. Climbers have occasionally got into trouble by not traversing right far enough on P4 (and P7 ). Start by the steps opposite the old electricity house, by the old bridge. Take great care not to drop anything towards the road.
1) 3, 44m. Follow the pillar leftwards to a 'netting' belay.
2) 4, 44m. Up the rib above to where the ridge levels out.
3) 2, 50m. Scramble easily up the ridge to a grassy terrace and cross this to a peg belay below and left of a groove in the wall.
4) 4+, 46m. Climb up rightwards (bolt) to the groove, and climb it for 3m, then pull onto the right edge. Follow a line of cracks up the wall to threads and traverse right for 10m to a stance.
5) 5+, 36m. Climb the polished groove (pegs and a bolts) and continue in the same line to belay on threads and an old bolt.
6) 4+, 20m. Climb the wall left of the belay (bolt) to a short wall. Trend right (pegs) to a slab and an exposed stance.
7) 4, 36m. Continue traversing right to a groove (possible belay) climb this and slabs above to the top.
Descent - Use the Terrace Descent, or continue to the top via a scramble and a ridge walk across the top. To descend from here, traverse the ridge until you reach houses, descend through these then head back left to the Terrace Descent © Rockfax

Ticklists

Costa blanca 2022

Feedback

User Date Notes
Tacsum_J 16 Nov, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Some moving rocks on 4th and 6th pitches to be careful of. Second abseil point slightly hard to find. We abseiled down a bolt in flower cave, but this means you then have to traverse left for the next anchor (increasing risk of ropes getting stuck....). Later we were told we should have stayed out of the cave to the left. That's were anchor should be..
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Some moving rocks on 4th and 6th pitches to be careful of. Second abseil point slightly hard to find. We abseiled down a bolt in flower cave, but this means you then have to traverse left for the next anchor (increasing risk of ropes getting stuck....). Later we were told we should have stayed out of the cave to the left. That's were anchor should be..
Chad123 24 Apr, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: This route is a bit over-rated compared to other routes such as Diedre Magicos and Via Valencia. Very rambling for quite a few of the pitches, only the 3rd and the 4th pitch are any good, and the crux corner is rather short and over quickly. Disappointing.....
βeta?
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βeta: This route is a bit over-rated compared to other routes such as Diedre Magicos and Via Valencia. Very rambling for quite a few of the pitches, only the 3rd and the 4th pitch are any good, and the crux corner is rather short and over quickly. Disappointing.....
sheffieldchris 29 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: first few piches were ok have to agree with others about the traverse right, with all the tatt above you and the look of the moves right very easy to be fooled into not doing what is'nt too bad a traverse onto a bit of a hanging belay. crux move now has 3 new bolts just were you need them.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: first few piches were ok have to agree with others about the traverse right, with all the tatt above you and the look of the moves right very easy to be fooled into not doing what is'nt too bad a traverse onto a bit of a hanging belay. crux move now has 3 new bolts just were you need them.
Neil Binns 4 Jan, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I didn't think this was as good as the Espolon Central on Puig Campana so if you have a choice between the two, then do that one.
βeta?
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βeta: I didn't think this was as good as the Espolon Central on Puig Campana so if you have a choice between the two, then do that one.
Ramon Marin 1 Jun, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Agree with you. That's what happen to us. I tried to abseil from a rock formation when it broke off, lucky me I was on a good hold. i abseil from a single nut placement. Dangerous. Rockfax guide looks good, but route description in this case was very poor.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Agree with you. That's what happen to us. I tried to abseil from a rock formation when it broke off, lucky me I was on a good hold. i abseil from a single nut placement. Dangerous. Rockfax guide looks good, but route description in this case was very poor.
Adrian Bates 15 Mar, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: This is a fantastic route. A real adventure that takes some classic lines up out of the gorge. It is definitely worth doing the last two pitches to the very top as they are both exciting located on the arrete and it is worth it to make it to the top anyway. For more details check out the My Favourite section on my Mascarat Gorge page: http://www.geocities.com/costablancaclimbing/mascarat.html#MyFavourite Adrian Bates Costa Blanca Climbing http://www.geocities.com/costablancaclimbing
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: This is a fantastic route. A real adventure that takes some classic lines up out of the gorge. It is definitely worth doing the last two pitches to the very top as they are both exciting located on the arrete and it is worth it to make it to the top anyway. For more details check out the My Favourite section on my Mascarat Gorge page: http://www.geocities.com/costablancaclimbing/mascarat.html#MyFavourite Adrian Bates Costa Blanca Climbing http://www.geocities.com/costablancaclimbing

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Voting
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 30
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
Chulla

Grade: 5c ***
(Moraira)

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