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Climbs 105
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l

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Daimon Beail on Who Sat on my Satsuma? (6a) at Masson Lees © Alan James

Crag features

SPORT CLIMBING:

Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along.
S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.

DRY TOOLING:

The cave at the far (east) end of the quarry.

Approach notes

On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.
See sportclimbs.co.uk for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.

Please take care when climbing the stile and gate/fence enroute to the quarry, both have become damaged in recent months.

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Guidebooks

Peak Limestone

Selected guidebook covering the best trad and sport limestone crags in the Peak District.
More info
More Guidebooks:
www.sportsclimbs.co.uk (1995)

Out of print:
Did anyone pick up a guidebook last weekend at orange or overhanging sections?
sammo247 - 31/May/20
I was with my friends the first time last Friday from 11.00am till 16.00pm and was ok, we were climbing on left-hand walls. Walls were dry, the temperature was 13 degrees and a few times was the sun and I did not feel the wind. there were other 6 people climbing I recommend
issor46 - 25/Mar/19
Trees chopped down and a vehicle path made to the access the quarry. Signs that it is going to be filled in soon. Very sad if that's the case
Fraser kid - 08/May/18
Visited last week, lovely secluded climbing, clean, some parts overgrown. Some loose rock.
TT999 - 19/Aug/16
Very secluded but getting overgrown, quite a lot of seepage as it says in Rockfax. Plenty of loose rock so do be careful! We found the lines of the climbs and the positions of the blots somewhat confusing.
thecruxclimber - 19/Jun/16
Large rockfall last week at the Black Walls/White Walls transition area.
sammo247 - 31/Jul/15
Still a great area to climb! The only down side is there seems to be less people now climbing this area and the quarry is starting to become a bit over grown in places.
Climber1988 - 30/Jul/15
Climbed at Masson Lees Aug '11. Jonny pulled (key?) hold off 'In the pocket' which landed on his head. I dislodged massive block from 'Nice on Masson' which trashed shirt Jonny had left on ground. Big block came off arete at the start of 'Grand Theft Auto' which trashed Jonnys other shirt - ha! Enjoyed 'Long black veil' and nothing fell off. I won't be back.... Soph
soph - 26/Aug/11
I was referring to POCKET ROCKET.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Sun, 13th Sept 2009, PM: this morning this route "lost" a small but important foothold, left of the 5th bolt. Harder now, but by how much?? 6th bolt was loose.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Further to previous comments, downsides include a surprisingly large amount of seepage on the Black and RH Overhanging Walls, and a lot of reinforced / glued on / comfortised holds. A bit artificial but still more fun than the climbing wall. Bolting still very good!
Fiend - 20/Jul/09
..wall, I meant!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Well bolted routes on good rock; great motivation to climb higher grades and go back to the overhanging all!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Really quite good. Rock can be a bit dusty but the main N-facing wall has a lot to go out. Great view from the parking but not the quarry.
Fiend - 04/Jun/09
A great crag with a pleasant feel. Rock sometimes snappy but loads to go at in the 7s. Nice job.
DrGav - 30/May/09
For proper topo's to the crag go to www.sportsclimbs.co.uk
j_clark - 01/Jun/08
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Climbs at this crag

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