UKC

Climbs 119
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 318m a.s.l

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A day of good British sport climbing. Slight drizzle and quarried limestone. © Ben.o.neill

Crag features

Sport Climbing:
Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along. S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.

Dry Tooling:
The cave at the far (east) end of the quarry.

Approach notes

On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.
See sportclimbs.co.uk for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.

Please take care when climbing the stile and gate/fence enroute to the quarry, both have become damaged in recent months.

Restricted Access

As of June 2021, there appear to be Redstarts nesting in the cut out above Crack o' Dawn, probably best to avoid this and the routes either side for a couple of weeks.

Please be aware that ravens are nesting just above the red wall on the right just above Fun in the Sun, and directly next to the chain of Physics Too. They seem quite distressed by the presence of climbers close by, so maybe give them some space until the babies fly the nest. Could be dangerous for the climber too

Updated by UKC: 15th June
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