Climbs 134
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 297m a.s.l
Tool time © climber34neil
Crag features
PARKINIG: There is a degree of tension in relation to parking, this has increased recently and there have been instances of damage to parked vehicles by annoyed locals. PLEASE CAR SHARE WHEREVER POSSIBLE - Plenty of parkinig is avaiible on Matlock Spa Rd, Matlock DE4 3TA (opposite te Sainsburys Petrol Station) IF YOU DO HAVE TO PARK AT THE CRAG, PLEASE PARK RESPONSBLY AS DETALED ON THE BMC RAD
There is plenty parking at bonsall in the village parking just past the cascades garden centre the walk in is really pleasant from here and only and extra 10minutes.
Sport Climbing:
Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along. S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.
Dry Tooling:
The cave at the far (east) end of the quarry.
Approach notes
PARKINIG: There is a degree of tension in relation to parking, this has increased recently and there have been instances of damage to parked vehicles by annoyed locals. PLEASE CAR SHARE WHEREVER POSSIBLE - Plenty of parkinig is avaible on Matlock Spa Rd, Matlock DE4 3TA (opposite te Sainsburys Petrol Station) IF YOU DO HAVE TO PARK AT THE CRAG, PLEASE PARK RESPONSBLY AS DETALED ON THE BMC RAD
On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.
See sportclimbs.co.uk for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.
Please take care when climbing the stile and gate/fence enroute to the quarry, both have become damaged in recent months.
Access Advice
USER ATTENTION
There is a degree of tension in relation to parking, this has increased recently and there have been instances of damage to parked vehicles by annoyed locals.
Due to the narrow steep nature of the approach road there are issues with vehicles causing obstruction to road users.
Several farmers use the dirt track leading off Salter's Lane towards the quarry and it is particularly important that they are able to freely enter and exit the track.
Please read and observe the parking advice below.
Significant rockfall and remaining instability have been reported on the RHS of Red Wall, particularly around the route Fun in the Sun. Loose rock is very likely to remain on this part of the crag so caution is advised to anyone using this area.
Please read and adhere to the parking and approach information.
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Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
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