UKC

Climbs 137
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 297m a.s.l

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Tool time © climber34neil

Crag features

PARKING: There is a degree of tension in relation to parking, this has increased recently and there have been instances of damage to parked vehicles by annoyed locals. PLEASE CAR SHARE WHEREVER POSSIBLE - Plenty of parking is available on Matlock Spa Rd, Matlock DE4 3TA (opposite te Sainsbury's Petrol Station) IF YOU DO HAVE TO PARK AT THE CRAG, PLEASE PARK RESPONSIBLY AS DETALED ON THE BMC RAD

There is plenty parking at Bonsall in the village parking just past the cascades garden centre the walk in is really pleasant from here and only and extra 10 minutes.

Sport Climbing:
Five main walls, three on the N and two on the S. N wall divided into three by a prominent arete at the end of a calcite wall, and a corner in the black face further along. S wall is more broken with slabby climbing in the first section and a calcite wall in the second.

Dry Tooling:
The cave at the far (east) end of the quarry.

Approach notes

PARKINIG: There is a degree of tension in relation to parking, this has increased recently and there have been instances of damage to parked vehicles by annoyed locals. PLEASE CAR SHARE WHEREVER POSSIBLE - Plenty of parkinig is avaible on Matlock Spa Rd, Matlock DE4 3TA (opposite te Sainsburys Petrol Station) IF YOU DO HAVE TO PARK AT THE CRAG, PLEASE PARK RESPONSBLY AS DETALED ON THE BMC RAD

On the hills above Matlock; secluded and quiet.
See sportclimbs.co.uk for access - note that the "broad entrance" to the dirt track on the left is a bit after the left turn off for Masson Leys farm, and has parking on the right hand side of the road, just before the road goes back to a very narrow single track again. Keep left over the gate and follow the ruts from the old quarrying lorries.

Please take care when climbing the stile and gate/fence enroute to the quarry, both have become damaged in recent months.

Restricted Access

USER ATTENTION

7pm Friday 6th October - 4:30pm Sunday 8th October
MassonFest 2023 will be taking place.

Although there are arrangements in place to mitigate parking issues (stipulation that event attendees park in Matlock and walk up, or use the shuttlebus service) it is highly advisable that other climbers avoid the crag on these dates to reduce the likelihood of access issues relating to crag parking and general user volume.

 

As ever, Please read and follow the parking advice below.

Significant rockfall and remaining instability have been reported on the RHS of Red Wall, particularly around the route Fun in the Sun. Loose rock is very likely to remain on this part of the crag so caution is advised to anyone using this area.

4th glue in bolt on Eye Eye has some wobble to it take care
DeansOnToasts - 23/May/23
Has anyone picked a helmet up? Petzl borea s/m left there Sunday night
alexandra.johnston - 12/Apr/22
Big recent rockfall at the right side of the red wall, and bits still coming down. I'd stay well away for the time being
Stevo81 - 22/Mar/22
Did anyone pick up a guidebook last weekend at orange or overhanging sections?
sammo247 - 31/May/20
I was with my friends the first time last Friday from 11.00am till 16.00pm and was ok, we were climbing on left-hand walls. Walls were dry, the temperature was 13 degrees and a few times was the sun and I did not feel the wind. there were other 6 people climbing I recommend
issor46 - 25/Mar/19
Trees chopped down and a vehicle path made to the access the quarry. Signs that it is going to be filled in soon. Very sad if that's the case
Fraser kid - 08/May/18
Visited last week, lovely secluded climbing, clean, some parts overgrown. Some loose rock.
TT999 - 19/Aug/16
Very secluded but getting overgrown, quite a lot of seepage as it says in Rockfax. Plenty of loose rock so do be careful! We found the lines of the climbs and the positions of the blots somewhat confusing.
thecruxclimber - 19/Jun/16
Large rockfall last week at the Black Walls/White Walls transition area.
sammo247 - 31/Jul/15
Still a great area to climb! The only down side is there seems to be less people now climbing this area and the quarry is starting to become a bit over grown in places.
Climber1988 - 30/Jul/15
Climbed at Masson Lees Aug '11. Jonny pulled (key?) hold off 'In the pocket' which landed on his head. I dislodged massive block from 'Nice on Masson' which trashed shirt Jonny had left on ground. Big block came off arete at the start of 'Grand Theft Auto' which trashed Jonnys other shirt - ha! Enjoyed 'Long black veil' and nothing fell off. I won't be back.... Soph
soph - 26/Aug/11
I was referring to POCKET ROCKET.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Sun, 13th Sept 2009, PM: this morning this route "lost" a small but important foothold, left of the 5th bolt. Harder now, but by how much?? 6th bolt was loose.
Pino - 14/Sep/09
Further to previous comments, downsides include a surprisingly large amount of seepage on the Black and RH Overhanging Walls, and a lot of reinforced / glued on / comfortised holds. A bit artificial but still more fun than the climbing wall. Bolting still very good!
Fiend - 20/Jul/09
..wall, I meant!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Well bolted routes on good rock; great motivation to climb higher grades and go back to the overhanging all!
Pino - 21/Jun/09
Really quite good. Rock can be a bit dusty but the main N-facing wall has a lot to go out. Great view from the parking but not the quarry.
Fiend - 04/Jun/09
A great crag with a pleasant feel. Rock sometimes snappy but loads to go at in the 7s. Nice job.
DrGav - 30/May/09
For proper topo's to the crag go to www.sportsclimbs.co.uk
j_clark - 01/Jun/08
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