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Climbs 13
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 1362m a.s.l
Faces NE

Crag features

The Palliser Formation outcrops on Mount McGillivray in a long line of cliffs punctuated by several buttresses. All the climbs described here lie on McGillivray Slabs, the portion of the cliffs closest to the road. The rock is moderate-angled with occasional steep walls and overhangs, and tends to be friable where it has not been waterworn.Nowadays the crag languishes in almost complete obscurity as it has little to recommend it (except perhaps the lack of crowds). The cliffs face north and in many areas are broken by ledges, trees and shattered rock.

Approach notes

There are two distinct areas on the cliff, each with its own approach. The large bowl at the upper left-hand end of the crag, home to Gollywog, Pythagoras and Pixie, is best reached via a fourth class gully (or through nearby trees) that drains the snowmelt waterfall that cascades over the cliff early in the year. Park either just off the eastbound highway at the entrance to a gravel pit at the base of the gully or across the road in the first pull-out along Lac des Arcs. For climbs

farther right, the best approach is via a small trail that leads up to Kahl Crack near the far west end. The trail begins at a break in the prominent road cut, just east of a yellow

No Access Issues

There are two distinct areas on the cliff, each with its own approach. The large bowl at the upper left-hand end of the crag, home to Gollywog, Pythagoras and Pixie, is best reached via a fourth class gully (or through nearby trees) that drains the snowmelt waterfall that cascades over the cliff early in the year. Park either just off the eastbound highway at the entrance to a gravel pit at the base of the gully or across the road in the first pull-out along Lac des Arcs. For climbs

farther right, the best approach is via a small trail that leads up to Kahl Crack near the far west end. The trail begins at a break in the prominent road cut, just east of a yellow “95 km/hr” sign.

Either park just off the eastbound highway near the sign or about 500 m farther east on the opposite side of the road of the second Lac des Arcs pull-out. The trail climbs steeply up through

trees and leads to a series of old gravel roads that zigzags up to a tunnel at the base of the cliff just left of Kahl Crack. This approach takes about 10 minutes. From here, a faint trail leads up

left beneath the crag and is best used to access most climbs except Imagination, Tony’s Routeand perhaps 7-Up. These may be reached directly through the trees from an old road that runs west from the gravel pit up to the rock tunnel.

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Climbs at this crag

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