Climbs 26
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 25m a.s.l
Faces SE

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Latest attempt on Clotted Cream - in sweltering March weather. © Brian H

Crag features

In recent years this fast-drying winter sun-trap has been denuded of its trees by Torbay Council. The remaining tree belays are set well back and require ropes of 50m or more. Micro-wires and small cams will maximise the protection possibilities on the more sparsely-protected climbs. On the slabs, a cool head is more of an asset than big muscles. In stark contrast, the top-right section of the quarry is a steep playground where fitness is put to the test.

Approach notes

From Torquay's Harbour, follow signs for Daddyhole around its Marina, past the 'Living Coasts' bird sanctuary and up the hill. A number of signed turnings eventually lead to the Daddyhole car park.

Walk left (facing out) down steps and follow a small path off right (as for the Daddyhole approach) to arrive at the top of the quarry on the left. Follow the edge of the cliff down to the floor of the quarry.

No Access Issues

Many trees have been felled at the top of the crag so previous tree belays are now stumps - some are usable, some are poor. Consider bringing an extra rope to build your belays from the remaining trees further back from the edge of the quarry.

Climbed in Meadfoot recently and was dissapointed to find the tree on 'Tree route'had been cut down. Can't see the point in doing this as it's been there for so long. It's changed the character of the climb too, and the top section feels more exposed than it used to!
Captainbobcat - 29/Sep/10
Torbay council? have taken it upon themselve to do some gardening at the top of this crag and Telegraph hole. It appears they had an extra few days worth of hiring chainsaws, have rid the top of the crag of probably 3/4 of the trees and hence most of the convenient belays. In addition to this they have removed the tree on Tree Root. The options for setting up a belay on some of the routes are now a bit limited and you may be best advised to take a spare or 60m rope to be able to setup off something more than a 3" high stump.
Karriless - 19/Apr/10
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