UKC

Climbs 114
Rocktype Greywacke
Altitude 11m a.s.l
Faces SE

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End of a good winters day. Robbie Miller rappelling down Limestone Blues Cliff Meikle Ross, Galloway, Scotland © Matt crawford

Crag features

8 cliff areas within an 800 metre stretch of coastline give adventurous climbing mostly in the middle grades. Variable rock quality in places, care to be taken at the top of routes especially.

Some of the best climbing is concentrated in Little Zawn where the rock is particularly solid. Mellow Yellow, Pinking Shear and Bloody Crack are all very good. Other good routes include Side Track, Curving Arete, Rez Route, Mental Block and K.9. If you are feeling particularly strong, Corridors of Power (E3 5c) give good steep climbing on surprisingly solid rock and Sunshine Superman (E4 6a) give a good fight through slabs and overlaps. Little Zawn scramble down is about here: 54.7666895, -4.0990216

Approach notes

There is very limited parking so please share lifts. Avoid Limehouse Blues Cliff between May to August due to nesting birds, other cliffs relatively bird-free. Please mind the cows when they have new calves.

Update this Crag
Last updated on 22/Jul/2024

No Access Issues

Avoid Limehouse Blues Cliff between May to August due to nesting birds, other cliffs relatively bird-free.

Has a great day ‘adventure climbing’ at Meikle Ross with my son this week. A few observations: - John Biggar’s info was incredibly useful with topos http://www.johnbiggar.com/galloway-climbing-index/meikle-ross-kirkcudbright-rock-climbing.asp - parking at the end of the road is pretty limited - only 3 cars max. - approach is easy but getting down into the climbs is NOT as easy as the guides make out. You should definitely plan on abseiling in even down the ‘grassy slopes’. - we tried to access the Fox Craig section by walking round the headland from the east. That is not possible and we had to backtrack. - Take a spare rope so you can leave it in situ on the access route. - we planned to climb at the Crab Slab but changed our plan as we were a little spooked by the access and went further round to Little Zawn instead. - one you find the little zawn stakes the access route is to the west. It looks unpromising to begin with but it’s a reasonable scramble down over the rocks. There’s one section of vertical climbing right at the end - only about 2m.
drconline - 12/Jul/24
Barn is no longer there, a lodge is going to be built, and the approach is now the inland path to all crags
michael burrows - 05/Sep/22
Great crag - quite easy to get to climbs.
Tom Phillips - 28/Jul/16
A fantastic suntrap for end of year climbing In a fantastic position. Rock quality in Little Zawn was actually very good. Walk in through the Cattle - might not want to wear your new trainers!
Stevie989 - 06/Nov/14
Climbed there many years ago one chilly Easter Sunday, in shirtsleeves. It can be a suntrap during the cooler months. Did Limehouse Blues, Galloway Corner, Crack & Corner and Salty Dog - all of which were worthwhile.
Lord of Starkness - 17/Apr/08
If you have to climb one route on Meikle Ross, Mellow Yellow, VS 4c is the one........Fantastic!
Ken MacMillan - 15/Dec/03
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