UKC

350m, 10 pitches. - Diverse climbing (Dülfer-crack in the 1st pitch, chimney in the 3rd pitch, traverse in the 4th, 7th and 8th pitch and VI+ face climbing in the 5th and 6th pitch) but poor bolt-protection (except the 5th and 6th pitch) and a lot of loose rock, which is mentally demanding and risky.
- In some pitches trad protection can be placed (especially 1st, 2nd and maybe 3rd with very big cams), but not anywhere you would like to have it.
- As the route seems not to have many ascents, lots of loose rocks. We had more than five break-outs of pebbles and bigger parts, luckily without any serious fall, but we heared that other people were not that lucky...
- The last abseil-belay of the abseil-piste of the Great Saint shown in the climbing guide was moved about 30 m down, so 60m rope is not enough - at least we couldn't find it during an extended night-searching session with a head-torch. Maybe look for another way to get down or climb / walk down from big plateau after the 2nd traditional abseil the to find the last abseil-belay on the left side of the characteristic gully below the small tree on your right. Or use the carabiner we left in one of the bolts of another route in the wall right of the big plateau.

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