250m, 9 pitches. Extremely impressive line (especially from a distance), with excellently varied and atmospheric climbing throughout. Generally good quality rock but some brittle rock on pitch 6 in particular. Good but sometimes very spaced bolts (circa 10m apart in places). Good cam placements (#0.3 to #2) can be found in the off-width crack (pitch 4), thin crack (pitch 6), and dihedral crack (pitch 9). Pitch 7 had no obvious natural pro, being armed with only 3 bolts across 40m of (easy) slab climbing. Fantastic views from the summit on a sunny day, with a quick and easy 3 abseil and pleasant path descent.

Pitch 1 : 5b Slab. Travers to the the left (very exposed). Go up on steeper wall with thin moves.
Pitch 2 : 5b Go up left steep slab, thin moves. Travers to the right.
Pitch 3 : 5c Thin slab (well bolted). Short and nice dihedral.
Pitch 4 : 5c+ Off-width crack (2 moves), then very nice dihedral crack.
Pitch 5 : 5b Move up left on steep slab.
Pitch 6 : 5b+ Following diagonal crack to the left.
Pitch 7 : 4c Straight up on easy slab
Pitch 8 : Travers to the right under the overhang and straight up to the other overhang (bolds on the ground under the second overhang)
Pitch 9 : Travers left to the dihedral crack, then straight up and traverse right to top out.

More detailed description at https://www.summitpost.org/

Stutte and Magdefrau 1981.

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