UKC

Climbs 75
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude Tidal
Faces SW

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my first absail into pembroke sea cliffs,ace. © datoon

Crag features

One of the problems with Mewsford is the huge number of brilliant routes that you walk past on the approach - you really need to want to go there! So how can I convince you? Well, here goes...Mewsford has a great set of routes in the E1 to E3 range that take brilliant and complex lines up a magnificent face of rock. The climbing starts strenuously but eases as you get higher and the exposure increases. All the routes listed here are worth doing but Daydreams and Surprise Attack are uber-classics! So now you are convinced, here is how to get there...

Approach notes

A long walk from either end of Range East. The wall is marked by a lookout point about a large wedge-shaped ramp in the sea below.

Approach from Stack Rocks in 35 mins, or 40 mins from St. Govan's.

Access Advice

Due to the tilted nature of the huge rock platform at the base of the cliff, retreat from routes on the SW and S faces is only possible for 2 - 3 hours before or after low tide. Night firing normally occurs on Tues & Thurs but can alternate to Mon & Wed. A large rock fall has affected some routes left of Surprise Attack.

2018 - another large rockfall has removed parts of routes in the 'Seafarers' area on the west side of the point.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 1 August

Reason: Nesting Birds

Seaonal Restriction due to chough nesting:   'Nightmare on Lily Street' to 'Brain Drain' inclusive.  This includes the Route 'Daydreams'.

Nesting birds Seasonal Restrictions lifted for 2021 July 25

Rockfax Digital

Available on Rockfax Digital

Rockfax Digital brings together all the Rockfax climbing information with UKC logbooks and presents it into a user-friendly package for use on Android and iOS devices.


Guidebooks

Pembroke

This new app version of the Pembroke Rockfax has been significantly updated with 350 extra routes, new geo-located maps and updates to the existing information. The print guide from 2009 had 650 routes and this new app package has nearly 1000! The update includes many easier routes plus extra lines at the main crags covered in the book. It also has extensive deep water soloing coverage with the majority of the crags from Mike Robertson's 2007 Deep Water book added to the mix.
More info

Pembroke

This book from 2009 covers all the classic routes on the most popular crags of Pembroke. It covers the beautiful slab climbing around St. David's and all the best crags of Range East and the Lydstep areas, as far as Mother Carey's Kitchen. The range and variety of routes is enough to keep any climber happy; from those leading moderate grades keen to have a look for the first time, all the way to those who have developed lifelong obsessions for the place!
More info
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Climbs at this crag

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