UKC

24m. Start between Seven Curses and Tenderfoot, below the obvious, overhang-guarded groove.

Strenuous but technically straightforward climbing up to and over the overhang gives access to the groove. Climb this to just above the point where Tenderfoot arrives from the right. Trend up left round the rib into a groove. Follow this to finish on the descent ramp. It’s possible, and maybe slightly easier, to move left rather sooner above the guardian overhang and thus gain the final groove from below.

Hard to believe that this hadn’t been done before – it’s such an obvious line – but no record of an earlier ascent could be found.

Ian Parsons, Ted Rogers [first known ascent] 05/May/2013.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

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Surge Control

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Mount Sion East)

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