Rockfax Description
A stunning and intimidating route up the centre of the orange shield of rock about 100m up and right from the start of Migan Pillaren, approached via "the left-hand of two gullies".
1) N7-, 50m. Climb left across a slab to meet a crack in a corner. Follow this onto the higher slab below a very steep wall (optional belay). Start up the groove above, but move left to a less likely looking groove with a jammed block higher up and a hidden crack. Climb past the block to a hanging belay under the roof - tufts of grass for feet.
2) N7-, 40m. Head into the V-groove and follow this past an off-width section (big cam) to jamming cracks. Up these to another hanging belay on the left, 10m below the next roofs.
3) N7+, 50m. An amazing and wild pitch. Climb up to the roofs and tackle the wide crack on the right. An easier corner above leads to more roofs and a hanging flake. Climb leftwards around this, then up right to another hanging belay in the wide crack. Very unlikely looking climbing in a spectacular position.
4) N5, 40m. Climb the flake on the left to an easier but loose upper gully - serious. 70m from the belay to the top.
Descent - The top is in a hanging valley; either scramble rightwards out of this and follow the ridge for 200m until you can descend leftwards down a valley towards Henningsvær, or follow ledges out left - exposed - to reach the same place. © Rockfax

FA. Robin Thomas, Alex Moran, 09.06.2010 09/Jun/2010.

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