At UKC we are all climbers and we understand the strong urge to be outdoors as the weather is finally improving. Please proceed with caution though.
A stunning and intimidating route up the centre of the orange shield of rock about 100m up and right from the start of Migan Pillaren, approached via "the left-hand of two gullies".
1) N7-, 50m. Climb left across the wet slab to meet a crack in the corner. Follow this onto the higher slab below the very steep wall (optional belay, not used on first ascent). Start up the groove above, but move left to a less likely looking groove with a jammed block higher up - there is a hidden crack in this groove. Climb up past the block to a hanging belay under the roof - tufts of grass for feet.
2) N7-, 40m. Head into the V-groove and follow this past an off-width section (big cam) to jamming cracks. Up these to another hanging belay on the left, 10m below the next roofs.
3) N7+, 50m. An amazing and wild pitch. Climb up to the roofs and tackle the wide crack on the right. An easier corner above leads to more roofs and a hanging flake. Climb leftwards around this, then up right to another hanging belay in the wide crack. Very unlikely looking climbing in a spectacular position.
4) N5, 40m. Climb the flake on the left to an easier but loose upper gully - serious. 70m from the belay to the top.
Descent - The top is in a hanging valley; either scramble rightwards out of this and follow the ridge for 200m until you can descend leftwards down a valley towards Henningsvær, or follow ledges out left - exposed - to reach the same place. © Rockfax
FA. Robin Thomas, Alex Moran, 09.06.2010 09/Jun/2010.