UKC

Climbs 116
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 399m a.s.l
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Bridget Glaister nearing the steep finishing wall on Virgin ayer, puta hoy (6a+) at Entrada Gratis, Mijas © Mark Glaister

Crag features

The single-pitch climbs that fringe the tourist mecca of Mijas are relatively minor when compared to those on the grand crags around El Chorro village to the north, but proximity to the coast and ease of access have ensured that the climbs remain popular. Over the last decade the track beneath the crag has been upgraded and the whole area is a lot cleaner than it once was. The Ravine has also been tidied up and developed further, but it still suffers from a lot of pigeons and little sunlight.

The area gets less rain than the crags around El Chorro and is slightly warmer. The cliffs above the track get the afternoon sun for an hour or two in the middle of the day, but is very sheltered from the wind.

Approach notes

From Malaga, follow the A-7 towards Marbella and, after around 25km, turn off for Mijas (there are two exits so if you miss the first then take the next one which is actually a slightly better road). Both roads wind uphill to a petrol station and roundabout on the edge of Mijas. When the road forks at a small roundabout, take the left fork and then follow the road around to the left as it drops down the hill - signed to parking. Continue past the multi-story parking to a left turn on a sharp bend signed to 'La Ermite Resort'. Follow this narrow road for around 750m (there is plenty of parking on this road but make sure you are within the white lines as explained on the notice at the start of the road) to parking under the crag.

Alternatively, park in one of the various public carparks, then walk through the centre of Mijas and drop down a road to encounter the first sector next to the road. The approach drive takes around 1 hour and 10 minutes from El Chorro.

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