UKC

9 pitches. Mega classic multi-pitch. A mixture of sport and trad, the pitches are hugely varied and require a wide range of techniques. Belays are bolted. Commonly climbed with a double set of cams, including some big ones (grey, purple, green). P1 is the technical crux- 5.11b sport face climbing. P2 5.10(b?) slab, mix of trad and sport, can be a little bold. P3 easier trad, maybe 5.7. P4 is a trad 5.9 hand, fist and finger crack- probably E1 in UK terms. There is a col at the top of pitch 4 where escape is possible on the right. P5 offwidth flake 5.10a or b, bring some big (up to the green one) cams! P6 is a squeeze chimney- poorly protected but difficult to fall out, grade of 5.8 is pretty much meaningless. Like 2 Stanage Diffs in a row. P7 5.10b. Not sure about P8 or P9, but the main difficulties are behind you. To limit rope drag, it appears to be common to split Pitch 4 into 2 (bonus bolted belay), to solo or pitch between top of Pitch 4 and bottom of Pitch 5, and to do a mini traverse pitch from top of Pitch 5 to bottom of P6 squeeze chimney (there is no bolted belay at the bottom of the squeeze chimney but there is natural pro and a decent ledge).

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

1 users have logged this

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High 5.11c
Mid 5.11c
Low 5.11c
High 5.11b
Mid 5.11b
Low 5.11b
High 5.11a
Mid 5.11a
Low 5.11a
Route of Interest
Canoe

Grade: 5.11b ***
(Mizugaki)

Loading Notifications...