9 pitches. Mega classic multi-pitch. A mixture of sport and trad, the pitches are hugely varied and require a wide range of techniques. Belays are bolted. Commonly climbed with a double set of cams, including some big ones (grey, purple, green). P1 is the technical crux- 5.11b sport face climbing. P2 5.10(b?) slab, mix of trad and sport, can be a little bold. P3 easier trad, maybe 5.7. P4 is a trad 5.9 hand, fist and finger crack- probably E1 in UK terms. There is a col at the top of pitch 4 where escape is possible on the right. P5 offwidth flake 5.10a or b, bring some big (up to the green one) cams! P6 is a squeeze chimney- poorly protected but difficult to fall out, grade of 5.8 is pretty much meaningless. Like 2 Stanage Diffs in a row. P7 5.10b. Not sure about P8 or P9, but the main difficulties are behind you. To limit rope drag, it appears to be common to split Pitch 4 into 2 (bonus bolted belay), to solo or pitch between top of Pitch 4 and bottom of Pitch 5, and to do a mini traverse pitch from top of Pitch 5 to bottom of P6 squeeze chimney (there is no bolted belay at the bottom of the squeeze chimney but there is natural pro and a decent ledge).

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High 5.11c
Mid 5.11c
Low 5.11c
High 5.11b
Mid 5.11b
Low 5.11b
High 5.11a
Mid 5.11a
Low 5.11a
Route of Interest

Grade: 5.11b ***

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