Rocktype Welsh igneous
Altitude 263m a.s.l
Kev Davies on 1st ascent © pencarth
Moel-y-Gest is a 263m hill to the west of Porthmadog in North Wales. It is a very rocky hill with high topographic prominence because of the lower land that surrounds it on all sides, and qualifies as a Marilyn.
Located here are many easier routes on solid rock and an impressive panorama of Cardigan Bay.
In summer, much of the approaches are very overgrown with gorse,bracken and other prickly botanical wonders. A machete comes in handy for the approaches. The rock is good, though.
Park at a small layby near the 30/40mph signs. Follow the path up past an old quarry. Take the next path up leftwards to a col where you take the path on the right. Follow this uphill to the western summit of Moel y Gest, then drop down to a col and then to a stone wall. Follow this rightward to Mainmast and Bulkhead Buttresses.
Accessing Mainmast during the summer months can be a problem due to head height bracken. Best to abseil in from a fixed wire sling anchor (beneath a boulder) at the top of Wardroom Crack. Foremast is directly above Tyddyn Llwyn Caravan Park. Drop down from the first col and follow the wall rightward to reach a scree slope underneath the crag. The routes on this particular section are poor and not worth the effort.
|Went to Bulkhead buttress, well worth a visit, definite sun trap and after raining just before first climb rock had dried completely by second climb with little sun. Grading easy most climbs would knock a grade off but maybe this is just because i'm used to climbing more popular routes. Lovely place|
Sol Armer - 12/Apr/13
|very usefull topo guide can be found here:
George_Surf - 05/Aug/11
|I found the crag easy to locate an locate the routes once i had fond the twin flakes mentioned on the Bulkhead route. The foot of the crag was rather over grown with ferns in August that only hindered us slightly. Given this and its locaton next to everdry tremadog i would think it would make a good alternative to the busy cliffs during autum and winter. Definatly one crag i will be visiting again. |
richw2k2 - 10/Aug/06
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