Restricted Access

This granite quarry was developed in the 1960ies, but due to loose rock was ignored until recently. The quarry is nicely seperated into three bays, a large eastern bay, a small central bay and a large western bay. A number of new boulder problems have been discovered in the right hand bay, while a small number of new sports routes have been developed in all three bays.

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 31 July

Reason: Nesting Birds

The restriction may be lifted or modified later in the season following site visits by RSPB. The quarry is in three distinct bays, and the birds (two seperate protected species) tend to vary their exact nest sites each year. Outside of the restricted times climbers are asked to be aware that if their presence disturbs the birds (screeching sounds, and obviously agitated birds) then they should not linger beneath the nest area. Both of the left hand bays are normally restrcicted but the right hand bay, that contains the newer sports routes and the bouldering is not covered by this restriction.


15m. this is the middle route on the Dr Faustus wall with excellent techbnical climbing and good rests : the groove provides the crux expecially for thiose less than 1.7m in height !

terry taylor , martin crook Feb/2011.


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Guidebooks for Moel y Gest Quarry

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High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Route of Interest
Slab Rog

Grade: 6b+ ***

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