Monk's Buttress is, for most of the year, a shady, brooding section of cliff that towers over the valley and sees less attention than most of the other crags. There are some great trad lines here and several hard routes which have Clwyd's hallmark of a few pieces of fixed gear including the odd bolt, peg and thread. The rock quality is variable, but many of the climbs are on compact limestone. The far right-hand end of Monk's Buttress is only a stone's throw away from the left end of Dinbren and it is relatively simple to traverse between the two crags.
From Llangollen, follow the road to the junction at 1.8 miles. Continue up the narrow valley road for 0.4 miles to a parking place just before a gated track on the right, as the road drops down into the trees (more parking is available back down the road if the lay-by is full). From the parking, take the gated track for 100m and then follow the wide valley above to the base of the Pinfold escarpment. Cross the stream and follow a narrow path underneath Monkshead Buttress and continue traversing beneath a series of small broken crags until a solid buttress of compact rock is reached. Alternatively approach by a quick walk from the end of Dinbren's leftmost buttresses (useful if parking is full).
The whole Eglwyseg escarpment is both a Site Of Special Scientific Interest and an European designated Special Area Of Conservation. This means that any deliberate or reckless damage or disturbance to the features of the site (inc. to nesting birds, vegetation clearance or drilling) could be regarded as a criminal act.
Dates: 15 February to 15 July
Reason: Nesting BirdsApplies to the whole crag but will be reviewed mid season and lifed early if the birds fail to nest here.
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