UKC

40m, 2 pitches. From the corner and tree that contains Plastic Mary and False Idols go left about 40 metres until you get to a buttress of rock sticking out. This is the most continuous bit of rock on this West side of Monny Crag West. Climb the steep blunt arete on juggy holds and ledges until the ground eases and you reach a wide grassy terrace (belay at the back of the terrace). The exit from this platform onto the slopes above involves either traversing the blank slab directly above the terrace or heading left off the terrace and then up along some heathery and loose ledges (recommend pitching it).

Jack Lucas 09/Jul/2019.

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JackLucas 7 Oct, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: From the corner and tree that contains Plastic Mary and False Idols go left about 40 metres until you get to a buttress of rock sticking out. This is the most continuous bit of rock on this West side of Monny Crag West. Climb the steep blunt arete on juggy holds and ledges until the ground eases and you reach a wide grassy terrace. Ample gear at the back of the terrace for belays using the crack systems and flakes. The exit from this terrace onto the slopes above involves either traversing the blank slab directly above the terrace or heading left off the terrace and then up along some heathery and loose ledges (not recommended!) to the top. Recommend keeping the rope on making this a short second pitch, or if feeling like a baller can solo it (we solo\'d and promptly pooped ourselves!)
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βeta: From the corner and tree that contains Plastic Mary and False Idols go left about 40 metres until you get to a buttress of rock sticking out. This is the most continuous bit of rock on this West side of Monny Crag West. Climb the steep blunt arete on juggy holds and ledges until the ground eases and you reach a wide grassy terrace. Ample gear at the back of the terrace for belays using the crack systems and flakes. The exit from this terrace onto the slopes above involves either traversing the blank slab directly above the terrace or heading left off the terrace and then up along some heathery and loose ledges (not recommended!) to the top. Recommend keeping the rope on making this a short second pitch, or if feeling like a baller can solo it (we solo'd and promptly pooped ourselves!)

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Leac Glas

Grade: HS 4b ***
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