Rockfax Description
IV, 800m, 6 - 8 hours. A major route and one of the best ways for true mountaineers to climb Mont Blanc.
Approach - Get to the Bivouac de la Fourche (see previous page) and spend the night here. From the hut, descend to the Glacier de la Brenva via an abseil (the railing on the hut makes for an ideal anchor) and a short downclimb. Cross the glacier directly towards the start of the route. The final section of the approach is threatened by seracs so don't hang around - about 1 hour from the Bivouac de la Fourche.
If climbing the Original Start (which is done ever more rarely than the G├╝ssfeldt Start) then head directly for Col Moore and climb the snow bay on the right just before reaching the Col.
1) Start under the huge seracs on the right. Cross the bergschrund and motor as fast as possible up steepening snow (up to 55 degrees), hugging the rock buttress on the left to reach the ridge crest.
2) Follow the ridge, which is narrow at first, but then widens and steepens to 45 degrees, until level with the final rock buttress.
3) Pick the best line through the jumble of seracs which guard the top of the route. In good conditions it should be possible to go straight up through them but it is often necessary to make a long rightwards traverse in order to find a way through.
Descent - Walk north to join the Trois Monts Route to the summit of Mont Blanc. Either follow this down to the Aiguille du Midi, or first up to the top of Mont Blanc. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start changed by a rockfall in 1995. Check the state of the top seracs before starting the climb. Can be climbed in good serac conditions via the Gussfeldt Coulouir to start. Gussfeldt Couloir and its approach are threatened by seracs. Weather needs to be very cold and dont hang around at the start.


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif, ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50, Big Routes, Alpine Progression


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Route of Interest

Migot Spur

Grade: D- 3 ***
(Aiguille du Chardonnet)
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