Rockfax Description
IV, 800m, 6 - 8 hours. A major route and one of the best ways for true mountaineers to climb Mont Blanc.
1) Start under the huge seracs on the right. Cross the bergschrund and motor as fast as possible up steepening snow (up to 55 degrees), hugging the rock buttress on the left to reach the ridge crest.
2) Follow the ridge, which is narrow at first, but then widens and steepens to 45 degrees, until level with the final rock buttress.
3) Pick the best line through the jumble of seracs which guard the top of the route. In good conditions it should be possible to go straight up through them but it is often necessary to make a long rightwards traverse in order to find a way through. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Start changed by a rockfall in 1995. Check the state of the top seracs before starting the climb. Can be climbed in good serac conditions via the Gussfeldt Coulouir to start. Gussfeldt Couloir and its approach are threatened by seracs. Weather needs to be very cold and dont hang around at the start.


Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif , ROCKFAX Chamonix: Top 50 , Big Routes , Alpine Progression , BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range


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High D
Mid D
Low D
High D-
Mid D-
Low D-
High AD+
Mid AD+
Low AD+
Votes cast 3
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
High 2
Mid 2
Low 2
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Écandies Traverse

Grade: D- ***
(Pointe des Écandies)

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