UKC

13 pitches.

Rockfax Description
150m. A pseudo-trad route (as is quite common in the Aiguilles Rouges) that takes in the lower of the two compact buttresses. It follows a nice groove line in the middle pitches.
1) 6a. A slab.
2) 6a. Head right round the overhang and cross the slab to the corner above.
3) 5c. Follow the crack and then slab above.
4) 6a. Follow the slab.
The route continues much further up Mont Oreb but those extra pitches are not described here. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Some gear required.

Ticklists

Chamonix Rock Routes

Feedback

User Date Notes
Noah Rachel 16 Jul Show βeta
βeta: You can abb down the gully (leftwards when facing the wall) at the top of P3 with two 60m ropes (there is also a mid-height station which could likely be reached on 50m ropes). This saves abbing the full route and is a cleaner abb.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: You can abb down the gully (leftwards when facing the wall) at the top of P3 with two 60m ropes (there is also a mid-height station which could likely be reached on 50m ropes). This saves abbing the full route and is a cleaner abb.
kfsand 30 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Full rack required, double up on small cams. The first part is around 150m, the second 250m. Better described in Michel Piola's guidebook.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Full rack required, double up on small cams. The first part is around 150m, the second 250m. Better described in Michel Piola's guidebook.

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Voting
High TD+
Mid TD+
Low TD+
High TD
Mid TD
Low TD
High TD-
Mid TD-
Low TD-
High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 1
Votes cast 1
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set
Route of Interest
Roger Baxter-Jones Directissime

Grade: TD ***
(Mont Maudit)

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