750m.
[From Constant, 2010]
Climb the couloir for 200m (45/50°), then continue diagonally leftwards up the gully for 150m, going over some steeper sections (3+ ice). At the foot of a "properly steep" wall, traverse left for 50m (go past a sort of snow arête). Move into and climb a corner line for 100m (V+ mixed) The upper part of this corner is shared with the 1952 Chaud-Nolin Route ("the flake", grade V rock). From the top of this step do a leftwards, descending traverse to go behind a spur (V mixed). Climb diagonally leftwards across a hanging slope (sections of 70° snow and mixed). Where the route crosses the Boivin-Poencet Route, continue diagonally left to gain a ramp (45/50°). Exit at a notch at around 3600m.
Climb the couloir for 200m (45/50°), then continue diagonally leftwards up the gully for 150m, going over some steeper sections (3+ ice). At the foot of a "properly steep" wall, traverse left for 50m (go past a sort of snow arête). Move into and climb a corner line for 100m (V+ mixed) The upper part of this corner is shared with the 1952 Chaud-Nolin Route ("the flake", grade V rock). From the top of this step do a leftwards, descending traverse to go behind a spur (V mixed). Climb diagonally leftwards across a hanging slope (sections of 70° snow and mixed). Where the route crosses the Boivin-Poencet Route, continue diagonally left to gain a ramp (45/50°). Exit at a notch at around 3600m.
S?bastien Escande & Patrick Wagnon 03/Dec/1999.
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Route of Interest
Sous Le Griffe Lucifer
Grade: TD+ ***
(Les Gillardes)