460m, 12 pitches.
460m, 12 pitches plus scramble to the top. 7 to 9 hours.
Map Tabacco 018.
Approach 1 hour from the carpark. The distinctive roof at 3/4 of the route is visible from the path. The route starts at the top of the detrital cone where at the base of the wall starts a right trending yellow limestone band. At the start you aim to a shallow groove.
Information on the route on http://www.ormeverticali.it/relazioni/cavallo-di-pontebba-viaggio-ad-uqbar/
Description of the pitches in Italian, but the photo and the topo of the route are good enough to find the route.
Crux pitch is definitely pitch 5 (not pitch 9). Although graded only VI+ the common feeling of pitch 5 is harder. Pitch 9 overall grade VI with a boulder start (VII-, piton).
Some pitons, very spaced, are present on the route (marked in the topo), all in good condition. At least one piton at each anchor, but anchors are generally well protectable.
Gearwise, full set of cams and wires, nothing particularly small required (no micro). All protections need to be extended, say 6 to 10 slings as a minimum.
The route is escapable at the anchor of pitch 8, where it joins with the route Di Marco (V+).
Descend: walk the ridge to the top of Monte Cavallo (cross and summit book) then downclimb the via ferrata Contin. 1h 20min to the path at the bottom of the via ferrata.
Map Tabacco 018.
Approach 1 hour from the carpark. The distinctive roof at 3/4 of the route is visible from the path. The route starts at the top of the detrital cone where at the base of the wall starts a right trending yellow limestone band. At the start you aim to a shallow groove.
Information on the route on http://www.ormeverticali.it/relazioni/cavallo-di-pontebba-viaggio-ad-uqbar/
Description of the pitches in Italian, but the photo and the topo of the route are good enough to find the route.
Crux pitch is definitely pitch 5 (not pitch 9). Although graded only VI+ the common feeling of pitch 5 is harder. Pitch 9 overall grade VI with a boulder start (VII-, piton).
Some pitons, very spaced, are present on the route (marked in the topo), all in good condition. At least one piton at each anchor, but anchors are generally well protectable.
Gearwise, full set of cams and wires, nothing particularly small required (no micro). All protections need to be extended, say 6 to 10 slings as a minimum.
The route is escapable at the anchor of pitch 8, where it joins with the route Di Marco (V+).
Descend: walk the ridge to the top of Monte Cavallo (cross and summit book) then downclimb the via ferrata Contin. 1h 20min to the path at the bottom of the via ferrata.
Mario Di Gallo, Paolo Pedrini 1995.
Feedback
There is no feedback for this climb.
Logged Ascents
2 users have logged this
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents