180m, 6 pitches.
4a, 5b, 5c, 5c, 5c, 4b.
Nice route following cracks, corners and ledges. The fourth corner crack pitch is very nice and quite unusual for a sport route.
After the last 5c pitch, there is an alternative 2 pitch 6a that goes right of the original 4b finish. there is a stud with the word 'trio' on to indicate the line of bolts. continue until a rocky grassy walk off becomes obvious.
Descent is down the via ferrata. This involves a 3 pitch traverse after you finish the route (beware the 3 pitches are 3 long pitches, with no belays - so it may well take more pitches, as you don't know how far you can go!)
Pitch 1 - 4a (25m) 6 bolts
Pitch 2 - 5b (20m) 6 bolts
Pitch 3 - 5c (20m) 3 bolts
Pitch 4 - 5c (20m) 7 bolts
Pitch 5 - 5c (18m) 7 bolts
Pitch 6 - 4b (30m) 6 bolts
Nice route following cracks, corners and ledges. The fourth corner crack pitch is very nice and quite unusual for a sport route.
After the last 5c pitch, there is an alternative 2 pitch 6a that goes right of the original 4b finish. there is a stud with the word 'trio' on to indicate the line of bolts. continue until a rocky grassy walk off becomes obvious.
Descent is down the via ferrata. This involves a 3 pitch traverse after you finish the route (beware the 3 pitches are 3 long pitches, with no belays - so it may well take more pitches, as you don't know how far you can go!)
Pitch 1 - 4a (25m) 6 bolts
Pitch 2 - 5b (20m) 6 bolts
Pitch 3 - 5c (20m) 3 bolts
Pitch 4 - 5c (20m) 7 bolts
Pitch 5 - 5c (18m) 7 bolts
Pitch 6 - 4b (30m) 6 bolts
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Mlewis | 24 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Good route with realistic/approximate grades (soft by Arco standards) Pitch 5 - loose bolts and some bolts falling out although the worst of it is on the easy ground. Worth bringing some nuts to protect the second on the traverse. Pitch 6 (last pitch) don't go up to early as this will take you on to a much hard route. Traverse left until you reach the line of older bolts and easy climbing. Easy descent, stayed roped up for about 60m until I reached a decent tree. Then soled the rest which was nothing more than a scramble back to the ferrata. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Good route with realistic/approximate grades (soft by Arco standards) Pitch 5 - loose bolts and some bolts falling out although the worst of it is on the easy ground. Worth bringing some nuts to protect the second on the traverse. Pitch 6 (last pitch) don't go up to early as this will take you on to a much hard route. Traverse left until you reach the line of older bolts and easy climbing. Easy descent, stayed roped up for about 60m until I reached a decent tree. Then soled the rest which was nothing more than a scramble back to the ferrata. |
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| JimOakleyAdventures | 2 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: An entertaining route. 15mins walk in from main Arco car park Follow up road towards campsites and small road off to left. Follow this for 250m passing the WW1 memorial on left. Bolts are good and 5-7m apart in places - took a mini sets of nuts and few cams which used occasionally. 2nd pitch first 3m is polished but manageable. There are intermediate anchors with bolts and tat inbetween pitches. The last pitch isn’t 4a with the final anchor revealing another pitch that has bolts going up. We tentatively walked along the 2ft ledge for 80m to with occasional belays around tress etc. 3hr 20mins 40 min walk down | ||
|
Show beta
βeta: An entertaining route. 15mins walk in from main Arco car park Follow up road towards campsites and small road off to left. Follow this for 250m passing the WW1 memorial on left. Bolts are good and 5-7m apart in places - took a mini sets of nuts and few cams which used occasionally. 2nd pitch first 3m is polished but manageable. There are intermediate anchors with bolts and tat inbetween pitches. The last pitch isn’t 4a with the final anchor revealing another pitch that has bolts going up. We tentatively walked along the 2ft ledge for 80m to with occasional belays around tress etc. 3hr 20mins 40 min walk down |
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| SophieWalker | 21 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Belays are all bolted. Second pitch is pretty sketchy as its very polished! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Belays are all bolted. Second pitch is pretty sketchy as its very polished! |
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| Tom Fullen | 21 Aug, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: The guidebook we had said that all the belay anchors had been removed. Well, they’re back. A ring bolt or a set of bolts at each anchor now. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: The guidebook we had said that all the belay anchors had been removed. Well, they’re back. A ring bolt or a set of bolts at each anchor now. |
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Route of Interest
Cerro Pipel
Grade: 5c ***
(Besagno)