UKC

300m, 10 pitches. V+, V+, VI, IV+, VI, VI, VI, IV, IV, IV.

U. Ischia, M. Ischia 1972.

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User Date Notes
PaulTclimbing 20 Jun, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: Local guidebooks suggest this is a sport route. It’s not. The dihedral has a couple of bolts ( good). Bolted stances. You need a rack/big gear for the dihedral. We took 5 nuts and 3 cams last minute. Not enough. Bumped up the large cam over and over again on dihedral as only protection. At pitch 1. Don’t go off right up a ramp line. It’s a side entrance to Zinsara 7a plus. The climbing crux is well bolted - expect 6b style roof/overlap. This brilliant route is not a 6a sport route. Italian/local guidebooks give VII- for crux penultimate pitch.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Local guidebooks suggest this is a sport route. It’s not. The dihedral has a couple of bolts ( good). Bolted stances. You need a rack/big gear for the dihedral. We took 5 nuts and 3 cams last minute. Not enough. Bumped up the large cam over and over again on dihedral as only protection. At pitch 1. Don’t go off right up a ramp line. It’s a side entrance to Zinsara 7a plus. The climbing crux is well bolted - expect 6b style roof/overlap. This brilliant route is not a 6a sport route. Italian/local guidebooks give VII- for crux penultimate pitch.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High VI-
Mid VI-
Low VI-
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
La Luna Argentea

Grade: VI ***
(Molinei Piramide Lakshmi)

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