UKC

1000m. Start from the bivouac Villata. Go up the snow couloir to the hanging Coolidge glacier, 2-3 mixed pitches to reach the glacier. Go straight across the glacier to reach the right-most couloir leading off it. Follow the couloir, passing a chimney that's a bit awkward carrying skis to reach the upper part of the couloir. Follow this to the summit, a bit more mixed climbing at the top.

Descent via the normal route (yellow marks and queue de cochon) or ski back down the route abseiling/downclimbing the mixed sections.

Christian Almer père et fils, William Augustus Brevoort Coolidge 28/Jul/1881.

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