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Climbs 150
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 327m a.s.l
Faces S

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Neil Carruthers approaching the crimpy upper wall on Dagon (F6c), Montesa © chris sm

Crag features

Montesa is a great little crag of pocketed rock. The routes are generally short, however the climbing is of a high calibre, the rock is rough, the setting is sunny and many of the routes are quite intense. There is a good variety of styles on offer here and some good picnic spots. The crag can get very busy, especially at weekends. The main buttresses are included here. 

Most of the crag faces south and, although the setting is quite exposed, it doesn't appear to catch much wind. There is no shelter in the rain here though the place dies dry quickly.

Approach notes

Montesa is just northwest of the N430 near Xàtiva. From the coast, head north to Gandía and get on the fast CV-60 towards Albaida (see map on page 379 for alternatives for this). Join the CV-40 heading north. This point can also be reached via Alcoi if you are coming from further south. After about 12km turn towards Albaceta on the N430 dual carriageway. Continue south to junction 37 to Montesa. Drive into the town and pick up signs for 'Castell de Montesa'. There are actually two signs which take you different ways around the town - they are both about the same distance. Park at a flat area below the castle. Walk down the hill to a path on the bend which leads to the crag. 

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Spain : Costa Blanca

The 2013 edition of the popular Costa Blanca Rockfax. 456 pages, 3000 routes on over 40 crags. Covers sport climbing and trad climbing from Murcia, through Alicante, Benidorm and Calp, up to crags south of Valencia.
More info
Some of the road numbers have changed since the guide has been published so pay attention!
Mike-W-99 - 24/Nov/17
Half a dozen newly bolted routes have appeared to the left of PEDRA CRISTALINA sector, there are no indications of names or grades, so names have been made up and can be corrected if any original names are known.
fatbuoybazza - 06/Apr/14
What a great little Crag! Well bolted routes and some incredible rock akin to Craig y Tonnau in wales....weird and wonderful
SGD - 26/Nov/12
Great little crag for ticking loads of routes in a day. About 1hr 45 mins from Calpe. Grades on the whole felt soft.
Zoomer - 29/Dec/10
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Climbs at this crag

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Moderators Updates to this page are checked by a UKC volunteer fatbuoybazza