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Climbs 63
Rocktype Granite
Altitude 86m a.s.l
Faces all

Crag features

17/02/2021 - BIRDS NESTING ON THE IRON HAWK SIDE OF THE QUARRY PLEASE STAY AWAY

The crag is an old quarry developed for climbing by Ian Rea, Calvin Torrens and Claire Sheridan. The descriptions and crag shots contained here are from An Ian Rea Facebook entry on Irish Climbers. The site has been used as a rubbish dump and has a Giant Hogweed problem AND BE AWARE IT IS VERY DANGEROUS IN CONTACT WITH SKIN.

PDF guide available here:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt

Approach notes

Take the road from Newry to Ballyholland. This is at the roundabout in Newry, either just before the Warrenpoint junction, coming from Belfast, or just after the Warrenpoint junction, coming from Dublin. Go up Courtney Hill/Ballyholland Rd., turn right at Moorhill Rd. After about a quarter of a mile the houses on the right give way to fencing around the quarry. Park at the big, locked, double gates. There should be a combination padlock o  the gates. The combination is 3544. You may park inside the gates, and as lso use the shelters in the yard at here.

Look round the gates on the left and walk over rightwards to find cliff. Access is down and left. It won't take much effort to find a tunnel in the gorse, cut by us, which gives easy access and simple scrambling down an easy angled buttress.

Alternatively you can keep left from the gates following the old quarry service road down. Then when it joins another track turn right and follow into the quarry past the SWAT airsoft hut and payment area.

 

 

Access Advice

MOORHILL QUARRY, NEWRY

Below is a statement from MI regarding Moorhill quarry in Newry. There will hopefully be further on this in the not too distant future. May 2019.

'Mountaineering Ireland is actively engaged with Newry, Mourne & Down District Council in relation to securing access for climbing at Moorhill Quarry. In the meantime climbing at Moorhill Quarry is as it is at other crags, the quarry is there, there is no formal access agreed for climbing, the only party that can stop people climbing is the Council that owns the quarry. Climbers are of course expected to act responsibly in terms of their own safety, and in their engagement with the quarry environment, with other users of the quarry and with people living nearby.

UPDATE JUNE 2020

The airsoft area appears to have been destroyed over the winter either from storms or vandalism. Between this and Covid-19, the quarry has not been used for airsoft since at least January and a facebook post by Newry SWAT (facebook.com/NewrySWAT) in February suggests that they might give up on the place. No weeding has taken place so far in 2020 but this does not impact most of the climbing. 

UPDATE JULY 2019 

An Airsoft club operates in this quarry, on Saturday and Sunday each week with expansion planned.

Peter, the owner of the gun and airsoft club has placed a pad lock on the upper gate and has made the code available and asked that it is shared with other climbers so that we can use it as a car park. the code is 3544. He is also happy if climbers use their shed at the top.

Advertised airsoft times are 9am - 5pm. SAT & SUN from 25th June 2019.  The operator states that climbing on most of the walls would be outside the danger zone due to the short range of the air guns used, and climbers are welcome.

 

The company page is facebook.com/NewrySWAT

 

On the issue of health and safety he said they are using low pressure guns that are out of range of the rock faces and have conciously errected their shooting area away from the rock. There may be 5-6 routes on the far side of the quarry you may wish to be careful of if they are airsofting but the other ~45 should be ok. From Michael Murphy on Irish climbers Facebook group

Guide here: https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt
RKernan - 15/Aug/19
Guide here https://drive.google.com/open?id=1QCuRdFZWSJ4ADA3Vxn6w4yTJqoV7M2mt
RKernan - 15/Aug/19
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