Altitude 4m a.s.l
Morgiou © Chris Craggs
Morgiou is the more easterly of the two most pronounced calanques, complete with its picturesque fishing village. Once again the approach to the area though the Marseilles' suburbs is a little harrowing, though once you pop over the col, things improve.
The cliffs here face southwest and offer great winter-sun conditions. The Paroi Noire is high and exposed to the Mistral and westerlies, the Arbri Cotier is low and very sheltered. Seepage isn't a problem, but there is no climbing in the rain to be had here.
Head for the southern suburbs of Marseilles towards the Les Baumettes prison. Signs for 'Morgiou' will lead you to the correct valley. Alternatively, for the Paroi Noire, park at Luminy and walk in as for Sugiton.
Edit: The sector listed here as "Shangri La" is called in the 2013 Calanques Climbing guide book "Roche Percee" which makes sense as it is the crag adjacent ro the conspicuous hole in the ridge. An alternative to the approach from the valley is to use the Luminy parking and approach as for Paroi Noire but double back on a path (not obvious among the many paths hereabouts) across the top of this cliff which descends to the right of the crag (goiung down) and pops through the hole which gives the crag the name. This is the approach described in the 2013 guide book.
If the road to Morgiou is closed & there are usually attendants at the barrier. Then park in the car park (early arrival is advised) then walk out the back of the car park and up the road, it is about 50-1hr walk.
The other option (longer but more scenic) is to take the path past the barrier on the left hand side of the car park and follow the red marked route. There are some low grade routes on your left hand side as you leave the car park.
Access to Morgiou is restricted in the summer (and also on windy days in hot weather due to fire risk); on weekends from 23rd March to 8th June, and every day between June 9th and September 13th parking anywhere along the road is not permitted between 8:30 and 19:30 due to narrow roads and serious problems with congestion.
Addition - car access to morgiou is now banned all year round except for residents. The car park is security controlled and free. Take lots of water itâ€™s a tough old walk back with a 70m rope and a load of draws.
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